GI5FVAXVB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I was amazed when Fed Ex pulled up to our front door the following day after I ordered the parts, I was wondering what they were delivering and to my amazement it was the parts I had ordered from parts select the previous day , thank you so much , you are awesome. My 73 year old husband who is a 5 year cancer survivor had the part installed and we were ready to start making ice within 1 hour.He went by the installation information sent in by your customers. Thank you all, Jo Mesplay

Removing the ice making assembly from the Ice compartment was not difficult except that two of the 3 screws we not visible without a mirror and then my nut driver was 5" long making it very tight quarters, so it was a time consuming process to remove them.
Once the 3 screws were removed the wiring harness was easily disconnected and the whole assembly came out.
The next step was to figure out how to remove the faulty part from the rest of the assembly.
After some strong persuasion the part would not separate from the control Assy. (The front of the unit) To complete the job I had to pull the front cover and unplug the motor and heater assy to expose two additional screws that had to be removed to pull the defective part out. The reassembly went quite easy except the 2 screws that you need a mirror to see. I was also trying to hurry because the frozen items were not holding all that well after the door was open for about an hour and a half. An instruction sheet showing the steps would have cut the time over 1/2!

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.

I first turned off the refrigerator. I then used a hair dryer to melt and release the ice by warming the bottom of the mould. Then I turned the fridge back on and let the icemaker discharge the ice. I then turned off the icemaker and ordered the new part. I unplugged the fridge, removed the icemaker (three screws and an electrical connection). Then I replaced the heater/tray with the new one and turned everything back on. Within a couple of hours we began having ice again.

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

Watched online video that demonstrated how to remove old, install new, and how to set correct code.

Prepped with correct tools, and general screwdriver set.
Took socks off so I limited my self collecting static electricity. Removed back panel and took a picture of the position. Once removed, I touched the refrigerator, before touching new piece and installed new panel.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.