GI5FVAXVB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I bought a set of appliances used online and the fridge door did not align to the other door. I quickly noticed I had lost the lower bushing to the right door upon transportation so I did what any man would do...find a way to fix it! after checking out a few websites I ran accross Partselect and after seeing their "dummy proof" diagrams It was certain I couldn't mess this up considering the loads of bushings to choose from. The order was placed Monday morning and to my surprise I had a package the VERY NEXT DAY!! AMAZING delivery time and quality products. PartSelect is definately my appliace parts source from now on! Thank you!

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

We ordered the part by phone at about 4pm on Monday, and it arrived via Fed Ex at 10:30am the next day. WOW. My husband fixed it in about 5 minutes. Removed the old mullion with a socket set thing and screwdriver. Unscrewed the screw, slid the mullion up, disconnected a wider that is inside. Then he lined up the top and bottom plastic parts, reconnected the new wire, slid the new mullion in place, and screwed it on.

Once I realized the High voltage Board was bad I ordered the new High voltage board from Parts Select, the part was in stock and was delivered to my house in two days, I opened the box, and the instructions were very clear how to install the new high voltage board and program the board with the code for my refrigerator. There are also videos on You Tube on how to program the code on the refrigerator in case you have difficulty. In all, the problem was fixed and the refrigerator was up and running. Thank You Parts Select.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.

Removed old starter and capacitor as per your website instruction.
Plugged in new parts.
Compresser turned on

Took off the old gasket and pushed in the new one.
Note on the left door, you will need to remove the center piece. suggest watching youtube video.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place