GHW9400P Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.

Pretty easy part replacing job. All screws were torx. Pry off plastic molding from front of machine where it covers the hinge with an old thin table knife or something, loosen the plastic molding inside the door, and replace the hinge. Minor hint... put the little round plastic molding back on the round part of the hinge BEFORE you screw the hinge onto the door.

slid new baffle into place. No directions with new part, fortunately it was easy to figure out how baffle locked into place.

First step was to remove old bellow. I opened the door there is a small wire with a spring attach that holds the outside of the bellow to thw washer. Then removed it from the water inlet, then took a short straight scewdriver to remove the gaint hose clamp holding it to the drum. Installed the new part. When putting hose clamp back on I removed the top of the washer by removing the three screws in the back then I flipped the hose clamp so I could use a long screwdiver from the top side.This will give you alot more room. Hope this helps

baffle just clicked into place by aligining tabs on baffle with openings on drum. very easy.

Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem

Overall, the install was easy.
Just a matter of getting yourself to get it done.
The video on the removal / install procedures was most helpful.
The front shocks were completed very quickly. The rear shock required all hoses to be disconnected and the back of the washer to be removed. After removing perhaps a dozen screws the cover was still fastened. You will see (in my case) 4 plastic flat clips. after they were removed the back came off. The rest of the project was the same as the front shocks. 1st time thru so to be expected.
Anyway, certainly a project that any DIYer can tackle.
Thanks Partselect for the correct parts in a timely fashion and the knowledge to perform the install.
Scott

Removed three mounting screws to the front access panel, removed panel, cleaned out drain trap, attempted to reset and drain washer, pump did not operate. Removed one wire harness to pump, two hose clamps and slipped pump assembly out of its mounting grommets, and installed new pump in reverse order. A sinch! And saved me approximately $150.00 bucks in repair service fees.

check error code : no water flow
pulled hoses [hot& cold] to clean screen in line.
pulled flow meter out from under top of hood to clean and check free wheel movement inside.
still error code F28 in mid wash cycle. called in and talk with service: he explained that hot& cold water valve was opening to slow or not enough for flow meter to read full presure. I replace water valve and flow meter. washer is doing fine. [I was getting readly to go in futher down the line and get new controler. talking to service stop me from spending a lot of money. THANK YOU

The best way to do it is not the way I started.
The best way is to 1st remove the bellow's front clamp with a small screwdriver at the spring. 2. unplug the 3 sets of wires attached to the lock. 3. remove the 3 screws on the front that hold the lock. 4. remove the plastic ribbon harness that attaches to the lock. 5. remove the old lock. 6. install the lock back carefully moving aside the cables. 7. install the 3 screws. 8. attach the ribbon harness. 9. attach the cables. 10. replace the bellow. 10. replace the clamp (here you may need someone's help to keep the rubber in place.) 11. the last part to fall in place is where the spring is. 12. If you can't do all by tact then you may want to remove the 3 screws from the top cover to be able to c where all fits.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Everything went great from order to done. Very happy

Was very simple repair, and just required pushing the new knob on by hand pressure. The part was ordered and it was delivered in two days, and I will not hesitate to order from this company again

Remove three screws holding the lower panel, the pump is right up front. Probably the hardest part was holding the hose clamps open while attaching the hoses to the pump housing. One screw holds the pump assembly in place. Hold the over-ride switch closed, check for leaks, and replace the loser panel.

Turned off the water and unplugged the machine

Took off the top of the washing machine by removing three screws along the back side

Removed the hoses connected to the water inlet valve

Removed the hose coming out of the water inlet valve

Marked the 4 electrical connectors

Used plyers to pull the electrical connectors off. Needed to just pull hard. Won't break them off.

Remove the screw that connects the valve to the back of the appliance.

I confirmed this was the part causing the problem by blowing air through it with my mouth. I could tell that the hot water side was not closing all the way.

To replace the part, just repeat the steps above in reverse.