GFDL110EH2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I'm a 90 pound mother of 4you and was able to fix this problem all by myself. Very easy!

First I turned off the breaker to the dishwasher. I then removed the bolts that held on the inner cover(note the two small bolts go on the bottom one on each side). I lifted the switch up and disconnected the wire clips from each side. I then put the new switch in place with the wires attached. Then replaced the cover and screwed it into place. Closed the door and flipped the breaker back on and turned the dish washer on and it started up. A very easy replaceable part.

Unscrewed the top lid screws located in door opening.Removed lid.Unscrewed the front cover screws located at top corners of cover, underneath where the top lid was.Pulled out drum,removing belt at same time.Removed the rear bearing unit,installed new one.Really easy.Took front bearing off front cover,it just snaps on.Installed new bearing,with 4 new slides.Reassembled machine,replacing old belt at the same time.Done.It really is that easy.Spent more time cleaning lint out of dryer interior than actual mechanical work,I think.

Put part in. Put the door cover on & turned on & it worked. Thanks for having the part. So far, so good.

Simply popped the old broken part out and popped the new part into place. I wasn't sure if it was the Latch Door or the Door Strike. Once the parts arrived, it was clear the Door Strike was not the issue.

Followed the video which made it real easy.

My son ordered the part, but gave up installing it. We called in a professional appliance repairman because the dryer had to be partially dismantled to remove the drum and a belt so three sets of holes could be aligned to secure the replacement diffuser. My daughter had to lend a hand to hold one piece in place while the repairman threaded the screws because the drum was too deep for him to be able to reach both front and back pieces. Definitely not a one-person job for this particular model.

Followed the directions from the video about that particular part. I am 57 and it was fairly simple to do.

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Followed the detailed instructions provided when I bought the parts at the online website. Very good directions diagrams/pictures and explanation of repair effort required

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.