GDT530PSD4SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply twist on the new part/filter.

Repair was straightforward. You can change water inlet on this model from underneath in bottom from, although it is a little tight

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Took cover of door off. Removeddoor from frame 1st. Lift door off of hinge. Disconnect door from springs. Unscrew bottom screws at base of door. Lift front cover(actually slides down) remove old part replace with new.make sure unplug door from main body.

Unscrew the upper and side holding screws. Move dishwasher part way out. I didn't need to disconnect the water or electric. Make sure the electricity is off. Remember your working around water. Take off the bottom plat removing two screws, Remove broken cable pulley and replace new. Buy two since your their you might want to replace both. Have fun! It's duck soup.

Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top.
Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes.
Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.

Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.

I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.

1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.

2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.

4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!

5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Good luck!

Release DW from cabinet and pull out, Unplug power.
Remove kick plate and unplug door cable.
Open door about 6 inches and using socket back out 2 bolts at bottom of door corners.
Pull door up off hinges about 4 inches and slide old gasket out and install new gasket in place.
Reset door on hinges and reinstall bolts.
Plug door cable in and reattach kick plate and plug power cable in.
Push DW back in place and attach to cabinet and adjust kick plate

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

Watched YouTube video on how to diagnose problems. Once part was identified ordered from Partselect.com and replaced the user interface circuit board. Dishwasher is now working.

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

First went to U Tube to view installation instructions and location of part. It was fairly easy to replace since I had installed the unit. I was able to move the unit out enough without disconnecting any line since there was enough slack in all three connections, only shut the power off. I did use the new parts even though the older ones were not broken. The nylon pulley wheel had built up with lint causing the cable to come off.

The main board is located under the washer in metal box accessed by removal of front plate at bottom. Removal of 2 screws on front of metal box allows board to drop down. However, very cumbersome to work on your back on floor in small space. I took the easy way and slid the washer out of cabinet, then turned washer ( it's light weight) on its back to access & remove old board and easily replace with new one. Also one of the connector plugs had to be replaced wired into the power connection made me very glad I was not working on my back ! Then simply turn washer upright and slide back into its cubby hole under counter.

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.