GDS20KBSDBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise

Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.

diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this ... Read more is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board of ... Read more f and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!

removed back cover--disconnect water supply-- removed screw holding vave and unplugged the
electric from the valve-- disconncect waterline to
the icemaker. reverse the to put on new part.

Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.

Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.

narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged ... Read more frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.

Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.

I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partsel ... Read more ect I have saved a bunch of money.

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the b ... Read more ack, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

Unplug electrical power to refrigerator. Disconnected electrical power to water valve, Disconnected water inlet and out let lines from valve. Remove screw holding valve on refrigerator, removed and replaced water valve with screw. Connected inlet and outlet water lines, turned on water and checked for leaks. Connected electrical power to ... Read more water valve, plug in electrical power to the refrogerator. Ice maker tray fill, made ice.

Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.

PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

Started with a visual inspection.
Turned off water.
Removed old valve.
Bent bracket to facilitate installation.
Installed.
Hooked up.
Tested.
Works as advertised.....