GDF520PGD0BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Dishwasher would not activate heating element to dry dishes, but element still has continuity. Determined main board was not supplying voltage to element. Remove front cover, disconnect power leads, disconnect and then drop down main board (held up by two screws). Reverse to install. Unfortunately the main board didn't correct the problem. It's not the thermostat either and the thermistor doesn't fail self diagnostics. Oh well, gambled and lost, new dishwasher time.

The part simply snapped in and worked perfectly.

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

All we had to do was order the top and lower racks and put them in. It was way less work and cheaper than having to put in a new dishwasher.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

Simple! I removed the flatware tray and pulled out the old rack assembly. Rolled in the new one and replaced the tray. Not really a "repair" per se but a needed replacement.

The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.

Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!

Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.

Took it out of the box and set rollers on track
rolled in place ALL DONE

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

Got the seal, read the reviews to see how to do it, Take out the two bottom screws ,easy enough. pull the door up ,pull out seal replace new one. Easy enough, but know one said don't pull the door up too high , I did, could not get it back down to save my soul. Needles to say had to buy a new dishwasher. that sucked have the new seal gasket if anybody needs one