GC2225PEKB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

removed top hinge, lifted door off bottom hinge, replaced cam, installed door.

Poped ou the old switch, connected new switch and pushed back into socket.

I used a knife blade to slip under the edge of old switch to pray it out of the hole it was inserted into, switched the wires and replaced the new switch into the same hole. It took about five minutes!

Took the door off, and replaced the plastic shim on the bottom that was the cause of the problem. The shim had broken into pieces and was no longer holding the door in height and alignment. I was proud of myself that I could repair it myself and avoid a $125.00 service call from a repairman. Total cost of repair including shipping and handling was just south of $12.00.

I followed the other web notes with one change .Since I too forgot the lube , I used a pry bar and block of wood to lift the door and a tooth pick to glob some lube in the lower hinge.

Removed the top hinge (4 screws)-lifted the door off of the lower hinge-replaced both halves of the cam kit and mounted the door and reattached the upper hinge.
Probably took about fifteen minutes total.

The worst part was unloading the door shelves. Removed upper hinge cover and hinge hex screws. This allows the door to be removed. Lay the door on side. Remove screw that holds cam in place. Replace
broken cam with new piece. Put the door back on the hinge pin and replace upper hinge screws and cover.
Now reload all of the stuff.

Remove the grandkids pictures from the door then empty the contents inside the door. Remove the top hinge cover and the top hinge bracket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot. Replace the lower cam by removing one screw. With the door in the horizontal position, remove and replace the upper cam. Apply a little grease on both cam surfaces. Align the door before tightening the top bracket and your done. If you did not take a picture of the door before you started the project you will have to rely on memory to arrange the pictures in the proper location.

replaced electric control board, defrost for six hours. next day (24 hours) same problem, dusterhoff2928@charter.net

replaced drain hose; melted ice that had built up behind it

Pried out ice blade bar and removed broken water fill cup and replaced with new one.The whole repair costs $9.52 So I saved $ 190 over the cost of Appliance man visit!
It would have been $150& $50 for visit to replace ice maker unit.

Used screw driver to pop out old switch. Used pliers to hold wire connection from fall back into slot on fridge. Inserted new swith into plug and pressed new switch back in place.

plugged the two wires in and snapped the switch into it's socket.

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

I had several times tried to get the old switch out but with no success. Ordered the "repair kit" and followed directions for removing old switch (there is a plastic spring clip on one side). Easy to unplug the old switch, plug the leads into the new one, snap the new one into place. Took about 5 minutes total--piece of cake. I wish I'd thought to try this years ago when the old switch began to fail.