GBSR3140H3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

Biggest problem was getting old hub nut off. I had to remove it in pieces because it was corroded so bad.

Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft.

Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran.

I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time...
THANKS!.. It sure helped.

Would I do business here again.. YEP!

I will recommend you to others.

Thanks.

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

I had to take the washer outside since there was no room to work on it in the laundry room. The extra space allowed me to spread out the parts, use the garden hose to clean and have light enough to take digital pics of the wiring before I disconnected them to remove the upper panel.

Removing the upper retaining ring for the tub was simple with only 4 screws. The agitator pulled right up and out. The nut cover/agitator anchor removed easily with one bolt.

The tough part was the inner tub base hub nut that I could not get off. Another user had commented on how they had to chisel the nut off and that was the best advice. I used my air chisel on either side of the nut and it was pretty quick to get off - within 3 min. If I hadn't read that I wouldn't have ordered another nut to replace the one I chiseled off.

The diagrams and repair stories really made the difference. Cleaning and reassembling was done within about an hour - cleaning the 11 years of soap scum at least an hour total before and after replacing the parts.

The parts were here in 3 days and the repair went very quickly .Quality item would do business again.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

After confirming what I thought was the problem and reading other posts it was fairly easy to replace the belt. After taking the bottom cover loose to gain access to the large and small pulley I found out that the belt was very tight to get on as a previous customer had mentioned. I also used visegrips to hold the belt in place on the large pulley while guideing the belt on the small motor pulley with one hand and turning the drum pulley with the other hand. It helped that I had read the other post first. Next time will be a snap.

Removed bottom washer plate. Placed belt on small, grooved pulley. Started belt on larger pulley. Clamped lock pliers to larger pulley to prevent belt from slipping off. Turned belt onto larger pulley by turning and pressing the belt close to the smaller pulley. Adjusted belt and replaced bottom plate.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

Replaced lid switch with wire harness. Video available on this web page. The technician said bad motor. We counted the flashes, light on top of motor, was 7 times. Diagnoses are very important, save you money! Do it more times, be sure. Biggest problem is socket size for the screws, size 6,5mm or 1/4 inch. Do not call technician or throw away your washer!...

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.

Removed front panel, cut two wires to switch ( color coded ) snapped old switch out and installed new switch, connected wires with wire nuts. Removed two screws in lid, removed magnet and installed the new one. A caveman could do it!

When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.

at the bottom of the tub their is a mettal peace witch holds the tub to the transmision witch is made of zink(aka junk metal or zink+tin)witch broke stoping tub from sping the clotes dry so atfer odering the new part and nut..
and finding out that it is a LEFTHAND nut made of alumanum
taking a small drill bit 1/8" and drilling the nut to weakin it making it brake able then cleaning the treds up
the new part fit right in the tufest part was hold the trans still to get the nut on tightenuf to hold the tub

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!