GB2SHDXPS02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Old gasket pulled of easily with no tools. New gasket was placed on floor and heated with blow dryer to straighten. Then installed new gasket by pressing in with my hands. Noticed that the old gasket was hard and not flexible. All was great. Fit perfectly. No frost after a week. Happy.

Snapped in new part

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

To repair the problem,I ordered a new gasket. Once I received the gasket, I laid it flat on the floors and hot the blow dryer and blow out the creases in the gasket. I then took off the door by removing the four screws from the door and rest the door on the table. I then removed the old gasket and replaced it with the new one. It took about 15 minutes. My frig. Stop freezing up.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.

long story, but good experience with Partselect.com...ordered a defrost heater as I had to replace same 15 years earlier, when part arrived I managed to test continuity of old heater in place and appeared fine (unless due to intermittent break that opened with heat) - so went ahead and order defrost thermostat and arraigned for return of heater (kept until testing after installation of the thermostat) - replacement of thermostat pretty easy - be sure to watch video of how to remove freezer rails for bottom freezer.
When I plugged back in the compressor wouldn't start, tried to and then shut off over and over. I had the dreaded thought that either I had put a leak in the coils or the compressor had failed due to overwork with failed defrost mode. Fingers crossed I ordered start capacitor and relay kit...sure enough when I removed the old capacitor and relay - I heard loose parts in the relay and pieces fell out when I shook it. installed new relay/capacitor and the fridge works like new - 21 year old Amana - very well engineered and easy to work on - great videos on disassembly re-assembly - when I replaced the heater 10 years ago I couldn't figure out how to remove side rails - no idea how I managed to pull the bottom of the cooling unit past the rails to remove and replace the heater.
I would recommend doing what I did, unless you are sure of the failure mode - which is to leave the back panel open for a day in the freezer after repair to be sure the defrost mode is working.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Pull refrigerator out from wall to shut off water and power. Remove ice bin, pulling front down then out. Remove screw at bottom of icemaker, then pull down to release two clips, Pull out a couple inches to get hand behind icemaker to release wiring harness connector. (squeeze top and bottom to release clips). Remove unit. Remove wiring harness and wire bail from old unit and install on new unit. Reverse steps to install new unit. Make sure ice bin is fully inserted, or unit will not function.

knelt down, positioned replacement kickplate; popped into place, stood up!

took longer to open the box and peel bubble wrap off item than to replace it!