FWX221AS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Lift washer lid by jerking the lid up and open. Remove front panel by removing 2 screws at front bottom and guiding tabs out of slots. Locate tabs on tub cover and gently pry loose with a flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. Remove tub cover and inspect seal area for damage or debris. Replace new tub cover on tub and align and fasten each tab. Ensure that lid is securely fastened to tub by pressing top of cover down and visually inspecting that each tab is engaged with tub hooks. Replace front panel. Use anti-seize grease when replacing the 2 front panel screws. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top lid spring clips before closing washer top. (The last 2 tips will help any future opening of the washer.)

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

I took the front and back off the machine. Removed the old pump by taking out a couple of screws. Put the new pump back in and put it back together. Works fine now.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went shakening and rallting once again.

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.