FWT645RHS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Remove the front lower panel. Remove the 4 plastic pins mounting the shocks using 1/2 inch short socket to hold the detent down as per included instructions. All plastic pins were stuck in place so used needle nose pliers to pull or push out. Lube the pins with grease before reinstall to help them go through the new shocks. Use the included lock nuts to lock the four legs in place as low as possible. Start the washer and level each leg while running so you can tell if the vibration is going away. Tedious method but worked.

Very easy to replace the assembly. Just twist counterclockwise to unscrew and replace with new assembly. You can probably complete without any tools, but the pliers will give you some leverage if needed.

NO EXPERIENCE NECESSARY!!
Unplug electrical.
Remove lower front panel -2 screws.
Locate drain pump in front right .
Remove electrical wiring plug - press release clip.
Remove mounting to floor - 2 screws.
Remove two hose clamps - pilers.
Mount in new part - 2 screws.
Reattach two hose clamps - pilers
* be sure hoses are fully reattached.
Attached electrical wiring plug.
Attach front panel - 2 screws
Plug in the electrical and be proud of your accomplishment because you just saved a minimum of US$200.00. Congrats.

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

I did my best to stretch the belt out and as I wrapped it around the pulley one hand was preventing the belt from slipping off and the other hand had the screwdriver to use as Leverage to stretch and slip the belt on the other side of the pulley. One thing that I saw but didn't try was to use zip ties to temporarily hold the belt in place so it didn't slip off that may have helped.

First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.

I removed the two screws in the front panel. Visually everything looked good. Luckily there was an envelope with a wiring diagram and a test procedure. A word of caution-the tests require checking voltages of 120 volts AC which can kill you. If you are comfortable with a multimeter and AC, continue reading. You must remove the back panel and hoses to continue. Following the step by step tests, voltage and resistance, the procedure said to replace the motor control board. After replacing the board and a new belt since the old belt looked worn, the washer still didn't spin. I followed the test procedure again and had good readings for all of the steps and the board. This left the motor windings to check. Since I'm not an electrician I wasn't sure how to check the windings but this was the last step so I ordered the motor. The install was straight forward and everything now worked. Total cost was $221.00 for the board and belt plus $275.00 for the motor, $496.00. This is still cheaper than a new machine and a lot less hassle.

first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

2 screws and about 48 seconds of work. very easy.