FGS337GQ1 Roper Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FGS337GQ1
46 - 60 of 98

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The igniter for the front left burner was shorting out at the base of the ceramic preventing the burner from lighting.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael D from FULTON, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Sn ap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.
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The ignitor, for the baking unit, went out on my oven
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joey from Lowndesboro, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connecte d the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)
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I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proce eded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat; Broiler Worked Fine
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Brooklyn, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.
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last oven bottom was ruined by melted and burnt plastic
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Missouri Valley, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clinton from Marion, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad i gniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.
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slides on lower drawer were broken
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leona R from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a phillips screwdriver and replaced the part with one screw.Very easy and replaced my lower drawer under my oven,it tool about three to five minutes at the most and my drawer works fine now.Thanks for the instruction video on line, it really helped.
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Oven was overheating and locking the door. Codes indicated the temperature sensor could be the issue.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Margaret from PUTNAM VALLEY, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board.
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!
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Broke drawer bracket
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Valerie from ROCHESTER, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Was super easy even I could do it. Wish I would have done it 2 years ago when my husband broke it. Just used a Phillips screwdriver. Very easy!
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Broken drawer glide
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • karen from Thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the part in place and put the new one on. Finding the part on this site was a breeze and it arrived quickly. A first rate experience all around.
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No spark to any of the burners
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from DELANO, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I slid the range out about 8 inches from the wall, and having unplugged the range and looked at the diagram from the Parts Select site, I used a mirror and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the small rear cover. From there I removed the one screw holding the spark module and that way I was able to hold the old and new one side by side to move the wires. Reversed the process, easy peasy.
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Stove got way too hot
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Cynthia from COVINGTON, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes
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THE OVEN WAS NOT HEATING TO DESIRED TEMPERATURE
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Heriberto from AUSTIN, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.
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Door handle of stove's oven broke. Had problem finding handle until I contacted Select Parts.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Martha from EDISON, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.
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Rear drawer slide was broken.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Mauldin, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.
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All Instructions for the FGS337GQ1
46 - 60 of 98