FGP337HQ0 Roper Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FGP337HQ0
76 - 90 of 99

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Oven would not light
  • Marva from McDonough, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I shut off the gas and removed the back plate and disconnected the wires. Then I unscrewed two screws from the igniter and replaced the old with the new. Then I snapped the wires together and put the back plate back on. The oven works great!
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oven will not heat up
  • Marie from Schaumburg, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
most difficult part was having to pull the stove out to access the Igniter wire connector. unplugged connector, removed 2 Igniter mounting screws, installed new Igniter and connected plug. very easy project. less than 30 minutes total thanks to website for perfect diagnosis of problem
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Oven would not come on.
  • Edie from Paducah, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.
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Igniter Glows but gas never comes to ignite.
  • Paul from State College, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.
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The plastic trim piece broke and the bottom metal trim was rusted
  • Susan from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!
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Pilot light wasn't working.
  • wilma from Ashdown, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I pulled the stove out from the wall & took the back lower right cover off. Unplugged the power cord & disconnected the igniter from the power. Took shelves & bottom cover (took two screws out)from oven. Used nutdriver to remove old igniter, then pulled the connector through into the oven, discard. Put new igniter in place with nutdriver. Push connecting cord through to back of stove.Replace bottom cover & shelves. Plug cords together & plug cord back in to outlet.Turn stove on & igniter works!!! Push stove back into place & bake a cake! :)
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Igniter was Out--Oven wouldn't heat
  • Bryan G from Cowley, WY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and smal l get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...
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Oven wasn't Heating
  • John from Plainfield, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.
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trim on oven door rusting
  • L Allen from Savannah, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame bu t sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen
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Oven would not light
  • Gary from Springfield, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts se lect to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.
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The old panel becamed worped & the finish was distressed.
  • Mike from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.
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Scews from old one didn't fit the new one.
  • Raymond from Ashland, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had to bring the new handle to the Hardware store and have them pick out screws that would work. The only problem is that I live 12 miles one way from the Hardware store. My advise is to order scews when ordering the handle.
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oven igniter
  • Kasey from Stryker, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
ordered the part and in less then 24 hours from ordering the part it was shipped and delivered and my husband and I put the part in took us no time at all very easy to do... 2 years ago i had this same problem and called a guy in the area cost me $200. I had dinner in the oven by 5 that night!!!!
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old igniter glowed red but was too cold
  • dominic from Tucson, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut off gas and unplugged electrical cord. Removed grates; oven floor and flame spreader and then unbolted old igniter with nut driver. Removed shield in rear of over with Phillips screwdriver and unplugged igniter from power socket. Removed old igniter and replaced with new. Bolted new igniter into place with nut driver and plug into re ar socket. Turned on gas and plugged in electric to test igniter; saw white glow and flame on in a minute. Replaced rear shield, flame spreader, oven floor and grates. DONE!
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The oven wouldn't light.
  • Jim from Broadalbin, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Our oven wouldn't light as the ignitor wasn't getting hot enough. I ordered the part from your company and got it in just a few days. A quarter inch wrench and one plug, done!
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All Instructions for the FGP337HQ0
76 - 90 of 99