FGP337GW5 Roper Range - Instructions

Unplug range from electric service.
Turn off gas supply to range.OVEN
Removed the floor panel of the oven housing.
Unscrew,and removed the heat deflector. (Caution sharp metals)
Used 3/8 socket set to unscrew the old Igniter, used same bolts to mount new Igniter.
Go to the back of the range removed the metal guard ... Read more held by four Phillip screws, unplug old harness, plug new factory plug (do not alter harness)

Pull range out from the wall. Unplugged the old igniter. Took the broiler assembly out of the bottom of the oven by removing 6 philips head screws. Removed the 2 screws holding the igniter & removed. Screwed the new igniter in place , replaced broiler assembly. Got back behind range plugged in the new igniter slid range back into position ... Read more & turned the oven & it works like a new one.

Even though the old igniter still glowed, I took Part Select's advise that it may be getting weak and ordered a new one. They shipped the part out the same day, very nice, however FedEx decided for some reason to hold it for five days before moving it along. Boo! When the part got here the fix was straight forward, just a matter of unscre ... Read more wing a small back panel, unplugging the part, taking the old igniter off the burner and reversing the process with the new part. Oven lit right up. Thank youfor your advise and quick service.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

Unscrewed old pan and screwed on new one.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol ... Read more oring refer handles. Thank you

Remember how you remove the glass. The side brackets go under the glass.

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burn ... Read more ers plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

Replaced trim kit found on site. Everything went well. No real problems. I will book mark your site for the any other parts I may need.

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and order ... Read more ed the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.

The igniter would glow but no gas was released to the burner. I was told that the igniter is bad because it is not getting hot enough to open the safety valve to release the gas to the burner. I turn the gas off and unplugged the oven. Opened the oven removed the racks then removed the two screws that hold the bottom plate of the oven. No ... Read more w I can see the burner and the igniter. The igniter is held on to the burner with two screws. Unscrew then and unplugged the wires. Then replaced with new igniter. Replaced everything that I removed. Plugged oven back in and turned on gas. Then started oven, it takes 45 sec. for the igniter to get hot enough to release the gas and everything was working.

Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the ga ... Read more s and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!