FGP337GN1 Roper Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FGP337GN1
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The igniter for the front left burner was shorting out at the base of the ceramic preventing the burner from lighting.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael D from FULTON, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Sn ap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.
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TOP RANGES WILL NOT LIGHT
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gabriel from DENVER, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I use the table knife to slide the side of the stove to open the top. then I traced one of the wire to where it was hooked up and remove it and replaced it. I did them one by one.
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Broken Door Handle
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove the side covers. Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the door, hold on to the glass and front panel, they will fall out. remove the 2 screws holding the handle. Put the new handle in place and insert screws, note the old handle had metal inserts that are threaded, the new does not. Had to push very hard and let the screws bite into the plastic.
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Corroded/greasy bottom oven tray
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert Ruth from FERNDALE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Loosened two screws and removed tray, very simple. Replaced new tray and adjusted screws to hold tray. Easiest part was finding new tray part number and ordering replacement using online parts diagram.
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One burner would not light automatically, needed match to use
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from MELROSE PARK, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burne r head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.
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last oven bottom was ruined by melted and burnt plastic
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Missouri Valley, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clinton from Marion, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad i gniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.
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I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proce eded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat; Broiler Worked Fine
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Brooklyn, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.
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The ignitor, for the baking unit, went out on my oven
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joey from Lowndesboro, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connecte d the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)
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Gas oven would not heat - Replaced igniter
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • M from MOORE, OK
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This model does not have a removable bottom drawer making access a bit of a challenge.
1. Remove power to the range.
2. Remove the oven door and the kick panel below.
3. Remove the floor of the oven.
4. Remove the burner shield.
5. Become a contortionist, then stick your head and torso in the gas oven.
6. Loo k at the top in the back to see how the broiler igniter is mounted. Use this to select the proper size wrench. I suggest using little ignition wrenches. The oven igniter is mounted in the same manner.
7. Locate the oven igniter at the bottom, in the back, at the center. Remove the small screw taking care that you do NOT drop the wrench or the screw. This will be done by feel as the screw is only visible after you remove it.
8. Route the wire of the new igniter down, next to the old igniter wire.
9. Crawl under the oven (behind the kick panel you removed, and cut the wire.
11. While you are under there, strip the insulation back on the wires about 3/8 inch. Splice the new igniter wire to the oven using the new wire nut. Check that it is secure.
12. Back to the oven. If your back is still holding up, remove the old igniter. Install the new igniter and the old screw. Tighten securely, taking care to not strip the threads.
13. Remove all of your tools, your head, and your torso.
14. Plug the oven back in temporarily, turn the oven on and verify the igniter heats up.
15. Unplug the range again.
16. Reinstall the burner shield, the oven bottom, the door and the kick panel.
17. Make sure you have all of your tools, stand up, and since you are now a contortionist, pat yourself on the back!
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Symptom: No clicking spark to any of the burners.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • David from JACKSONVILLE, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Based on symptom, knew either switches or spark module. Checked continuity to each switch. Knew if only one faulty, entire harness must be replaced. Checked out good. Spark module isolated so replaced it.
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No spark to any of the burners
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from DELANO, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I slid the range out about 8 inches from the wall, and having unplugged the range and looked at the diagram from the Parts Select site, I used a mirror and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the small rear cover. From there I removed the one screw holding the spark module and that way I was able to hold the old and new one side by side to move the wires. Reversed the process, easy peasy.
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Lower oven Igniter wouldn't heat up and fire the propane.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from CHEWELAH, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.
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Door handle of stove's oven broke. Had problem finding handle until I contacted Select Parts.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Martha from EDISON, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.
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All Instructions for the FGP337GN1
31 - 45 of 68