FGHS2365KF2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the ice storage bin out. Took the unit apart,and disamble the augar unit. Ordered parts from manufacture, which arrived in two days. As soon as I got the parts, I reassambled it. Work perfect. Good job!

very easy to do. just snap into place

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

removed fan unit from frig and installed new motor and then replaced back in frig. No tools needed. need to unplug unit and take apart and put new motor in the unit and then plug back in.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Remove the screws that hold the old valve to the side of the refrigerator. Next, detach each plastic tube and attach that tube to the same place on the new valve, and repeat (there are many valves). Afterward, I realized that many of the plastic tubes had become brittle and had mineral deposits, so I bought additional tubing for ice makers and replaced each tube, one at a time.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

I began by replacing the main control board and initially the fridge wouldn't even turn on/start up. After digging into the problem it turns out the newer manufactured control board won't communicate with the older secondary display board above the water/ice dispenser. It would've been extremely helpful and time saving to have had this information when I ordered the main control board. It shouldn't be difficult to create a cross reference sheet/chart as this increased my repair cost from roughly $350 to $600 and some people might opt to replace rather than repair.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.