FFSE5115PW1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Tight quarters but went well, fairly easy except for the far back screw that secures the element to back of dryer. Would have been easier if I removed drum but I didn’t want to disassemble that much. All is good and wife is ?? . If need help with disassemble Utube is your friend.

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

Getting to the element and putting the machine back together, in my case, was the most difficult part. There are tons of youtube videos that can guide you through the removal and replacement better than I can. I recomend watching those videos and taking pictures of the old element prior to removing it. Also, I would put all the screws in separate ziplock bags with labels on them because every screw for my model was unique. I would also tape and label the electrical wires too.

I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

I took the old one out and put the new one in. Sorry, I have some mechanical abilities but not much in giving detailed instructions on how I did it. I will say there are some little metal tabs that you have to bend back to get the old one out and then bend them back in place to hold the new part in. Like you find on some picture frames. The part came in just a few days after I ordered it.

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.

popped in one in

I called a wonderful friend who diagnosed the problem; ordered the repair part; and fixed it!!!

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

The new latch easily snapped it into place.

put door catch in hole

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Such an easy repair that I should have done months ago. I knew the gasket was failing but kept fixing the old one until it finally broke apart and couldn't be reused. The new gasket installed within minutes and fit perfectly, not to mention I no longer have to deal with it every time I do the laundry.

Very simple. I removed the broken latch with pliers and snapped in the new one in less than 5 minutes.