FFEF3011LBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!

Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

i at first had a hard time finding the model # on this older electric stove. i did a chat with a rep from partselect.com and they sent me a web site that showed me where to look for it. that helped a lot. found it and searched on partselect.com . they had just what was needed. the purchase was easy and shipping was fast. i was worried it was going to be time consuming finding what i needed, not true once i found their web site. also, installation was easy.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem