FEF450WCWB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Didn't get repaired because I could not get the right parts to fix it. You would send me a part for the oven. The oven and burner parts are not the same

Had to remove oven door due to cabinetry. Removed screws holding unit to back wall. Pulled unit forward to release unit from front roof and expose wire connections to unit. Trick #1--get both hands into oven to to remove wires from unit. Front hanger for unit was different than old unit. Had to remove front hanger from both units. Hanger from old unit had to be sqeezed onto new unit in the unit in the proper location to fit into the roof stirrup to hang the unit. Now, two arms and hands into the back of the oven to reconnect the wires to the element. Slide the old support into the stirrup and screw to back wall. Result, the back wall plate of the new element partially covered the edge of the light cover which will be a challenge to replace the bulb.

Plugged the new one in and it worked.
I did search out Frigidaire parts and there are other types tha may or may not work. Calrod burners are not all that unusual. I went with the real thing.

Simple: Snip old terminal block off. Strip wires. Connect new Terminal block using twist-on wire caps (provided in kit). Mount to stove top with existing screw. TIP: Make sure you insert the wire lead into the terminal block the right way (not upside down). Otherwise burner element will not insert into terminal block properly.

Remove heating coils raise stove top unsrew terminal blocks cut wires assemble terminals strip wires twist wires together install wire nuts apply heat shrink lower stove top plug in stove repair complete.Thanks.

First unplug the electricity from the stove. Replacement terminals on back of switch are set different than the originals. So, I took notes (purple wire =P, Black wire=L1, two yellow wires = H1 & H2, and orange wire=L2). Your stove might be different in the color coding. Just take notes. First I unscrewed the screws on the top back plate of the stove. Removed the back plate. Took notes on where the wires went. Removed the wires going to the five terminals. Unscrewed the two screws on front panel of the stove holding the old switch in place. Removed the old switch. Put in the new switch through the back of stove. Determined the length of the control shaft. Take the switch back out. With two pliers on the control shaft, holding the pliers closer to the switch firmly, use the second pliers just past the predetermined breaking point. With the second pliers snap off the control shaft. Be careful not to snap off two much. Place the switch in the proper place and mount to the stove. You may need some parts in the assembly parts package for this. I did not. Inside of the parts package is a set of plastic parts. I selected the part I needed to insert into the control knob for a bushing just to take up space. I placed that part inside of the control knob. I then placed it onto the control shaft. Plug back the wire going to the electric outlet. Instead of unplugging and plugging, you might want to switch off the circuit breaker and switch back on when the job is done. It works!

I unplugged the damaged unit and plugged in the new one.

We pulled the stove out from its slot in our island. We unplugged it and unhooked the gas line so we could get behind it easily. We then took off the back (using screwdriver) to get to the connectors for the element. We unhooked the connectors from the old element. Then we took off the plate inside the back of the oven (using screwdriver)and gently pulled the old element out. We seated the new element in the oven and then hooked it up in the back and put it all back together again. It worked perfectly! The hardest part was cleaning the dirty floor under where the oven had been for 7 years!

replaced it

Unplugged the element and the melted on pot. Plugged in the new element. I thought I might need a whole new cooktop but a new element was very easy to find online.

Pulled old burner out, pushed new one in. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Heats very quickly, now.

Bottom oven quit heating about 6 mos. ago and now top oven quit. Broiler worked fine on both. Bought 1 replacement element to try. Did not work on either oven. Found online where someone had found a bad solder joint on a relay board so I pulled the oven and removed the covers. (WITH POWER OFF. I made a diagram of the wire connections to the board and removed it. I FOUND a cold solder joint on the L2 connection of the top oven board. I found the exact same cold solder joint on the bottom oven board also. After resoldering the connections and touching up any suspect joints I replaced the boards. They BOTH WORKED fine!
Anyone that can't solder can take the boards to a local radio/TV repair shop and probably get the techincian to resolder it for a minimum fee. It is certainly worth the attempt.

It's kind of embarrassing!
As the breaker was being thrown to turn the current off, I discovered that the breaker box was burn up at the breakers.
Short story but I got'er done! The problem now is there is something still wrong with teh oven!
I think I see a new one in the future!
Thank you very much for the very prompt delivery.
My purchase has been without a flaw.
I have already sent the part back for a refund.
It cost me something like $13 for this experience for freight.
I will remember you with my next need.

First I unplugged the element that wasn't working and switched it with one that was to confirm that it was the burner element, and not the cooktop wiring, that was the problem. Once that was confirmed, I ordered a new element from partselect.com. Upon arrival of the new element several days later, I plugged it into the empty plug on the cooktop and voila, we're cooking on all 4 again.

Easy to open package and plug in unit! Too simple and quite happy with end results!