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FDE7977ES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the FDE7977ES0
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The dryer was squealing when running.
Based on all of the other posts, their explanations were right on, so I won't repeat it here. You could probably do this repair on your own, but it helps having someone to hold the drum while reattaching the screws. I replace the rear drum bearing assembly and the belt. I would recommend replacing the belt. I almost didn't, but I'm glad I did. Once I had it off, I could see the cracks in it.

When installing the new bearing, make sure that you pack it with the supplied grease. Be liberal with it. I used what left over grease I had to grease the idler puller bearings too.

The dryer works perfectly now, with no squealing. My experience with Parts Select was flawless. The shipping was extremely fast, and the parts were as described. Finding the correct parts was a snap thanks to their easy to use web site.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Multi Rib Belt
  • Greg from Nibley, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Terminal block, and wires were dammaged/melted
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer stopped in middle of cycle and wouldn't restart
followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Michael from HUDSON, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Screeching noise when drying
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.

Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.
You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum.
Remove the drive belt
Remove the drum.
You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.
Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother
Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)

Re install everything back again. And you are done
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Drum Support Bearing Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket
  • David from Rockville, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rim On Old Drum Broke Off.
Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.
Parts Used:
Drum Kit
  • Harry from Greenwood, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The dyer functioned fine, but was not producing any heat.
The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Assembly
  • Jeff from Norwalk, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Door Strike
After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.
Parts Used:
Door Strike
  • William from Martinsville, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
9 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Auto Dry would not cut off and took long time to dry.
1. I disconnected power cord
2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into
the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the
front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned
it back against a wall at the back of the machine.
3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the
inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the
wires from the door switch and then crimped the
metal clips holding the front panel to the main
body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel
toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside.
4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the
two screws holding the motor area access panel and
took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum
belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor
pulley.
5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the
ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to
take the belt off and work the drum out of the front
panel opening and put it aside.
6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil
assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One
needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil
spade connectors that are located at the ceramic
insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by
undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer.
7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes
necessary to remove the spade terminals from the
ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges
that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors
at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the
spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can
unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it
to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can
put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert
the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the
flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly
sequence for the assembly to complete the job.
Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the
future.)
Outcome
Parts Used:
Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Peter from Harrngton, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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old selector knob cracked inside could not use the dryer.
removed the old selector knob just pulled it out gently and lined up the new selector knob and gently pushed it into correct alignment. what a breeze.
reasonable prices. saved me $ on a service call, part, and labor. Thank you M



I just feel the postage is way too much for an item that weighs under 1 oz.
Parts Used:
Control Knob
  • Marilyn from Pembroke Pines, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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The rear drum hitch was sheared off
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Nathan from Clarence, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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timer knob was broken
only needed to attach knob with one hand.
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Margaret from Millmont, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer would not even turn on. Removed 2 screws holding thermal limiter switch and removed t
Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Daniel from SAN ANTONIO, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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cloths being torn in dryer
first i removed the top -second I removed the two screws hold the front on - thrid I unpluged the wiring to remove the front - fourth I removed old part and cleaned off old glue -fifth I applied new glue and new part - sixth I reasembled - worked good as new
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • rene from las cruces, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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dryer door wouldnt close
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • karen from aurora, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The dryer would not dry clothes
Girls you can do it on your own!

The easiest way is taking the back off the dryer but if you can't do that just pop the top up and unscrew the front. Just make sure you remember how you take everything out and put it back in the same.

The most difficult part is trying to line up the holes for the heating element, and holding it there while screwing the element in place.

It's a breeze!
Parts Used:
Heating Element Assembly
  • Dawn from Euclid, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the FDE7977ES0
46 - 60 of 407