FDE216RES1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

This is a stacked wash/dryer.
- unpluged washer/ dryer
- removed front panels under dryer drum area
- disconedted the wiring connection from washer to dryer
- removed front door panel
- disconnected and removed belt
- removed screws holding in drum
- removed drum
- replaced felt on the door (came with drum replacement kit)
- aligned and attached new drum
- replaced belt on drum
- aligned and installed door
- reconnected wiring connecting washer and dryer
- installed fron panels under dry door
- pluged in washer/dryer
Works like new

we simply screwed the new one in place

I followed the recommendation from William, from Ardmore, OK and Elvis, from Miami, FL for the repairs. Elvis had detailed instructions as well as William, so I just combined the two and I was able to repair my dryer in three hours time. My sincere thanks to partselect web site in posting the repairs on line and for everyones input. I will be back to use the web site again to troubleshoot my other appliances and order parts (great price, fast service for parts) and I will highly recommend this site to my friends.

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!

The new motor from parts select was not correct. The new motor is a bolt on. The original motor was a press on. Had to return at a cost of 42.00 dollars. Had to buy a new dryer.

First of all I would like you all to know that I cheated just a bit. I had SEARS come out and tell me for sure what the problem was, as they took my dryer apart a payed close attention to everything they did. After I was told that it would cost me over $200 (on top of the $109 I just payed for them to tell me what was wrong) to fix the heating element. I replied with a "NO THANKS!", I also told them not to worry putting it back together. It seemed like he was very happy to hear that and thought I was going to buy a new dryer, he even gave me a coupon for a whole 10% off if I spend over $400. After spending 10 minutes or so on line I found the part I needed @ Partselect.com (plug-plug) for like $20. Once I received the part it took all of 15 minutes to take of the old and put on the new. First: Make sure power is off by unplugging or turn off breaker (can't finish a project if a project finishes you)! Second: Find the two power lines sticking out at about four o'clock and disconnect. Third: Unscrew porcelain separator and remove the two coil ends before removing the coil it's self from the arrow like holders. Forth: reverse last three steps with care (coil feels like it could break easily). Fifth: Place drum back in it's setting while making sure that the drive belt that turns drum is placed around motor pulley. Sixth: Button it up the way you pulled it a part. and your done, good luck!

much as described earler,
1. Removed 2 screws on back at the top and 2 on the chrome vent to access the belt and pulley.
2. Disconnected spring from pulley assembly and removed belt from pulley and motor.
3. Removed top of dryer.
4. Removed control panel.
5. Removed screws from inside dryer tumbler (all of them)
6. Removed bottom kick plate.
7. Removed 2 screws from inside panel (near tumbler) and 2 screws from bottom of front panel. Removed front panel.
8. Removed tumbler housing.
9. Removed heating element cover.
10. Removed heating element pan. (wires first)
11. Removed "bearing" by lifing it up (snaps in)
12. Cleaned and regreased "bearing"
Assembled in reverse order.

When it comes to repairs the only thing that I can fix are sandwiches. To say that I am a handy man is usually followed by snickers from my wife and friends... However, I was able to completley take apart my dryer, replace the heating pan and coils, put it back together and it works all by myself (my wife was standing behind me with a fire estinguisher when I plugged it in for the 1st time). I took the advice of some of the post I saw on this sight and took some before shots with my camera phone and marked the wires with tape so I knew where to return them and was able to get it all done. I was suprised at how easy it was to do and how simple a dryer really is on the inside. Ordering the part and doing it myself saved me a couple of hundred dollars easy.... this was the way to go!

There are only three screws holding the drum in. However, to get it out I had to remove the front panels, and the top of the dryer part of the washer-dryer combo. The drum came out easily, but getting the new one in was pretty hard. I had to guess how the drive belt was routed around the motor pulley and idler pulley, since I couldn't see it until I'd removed the drum. Since the new drum wasn't exactly like the old one, I had to remove the glide strip from the front panel to get it to fit. At present, the unit is not completely reassembled, so I can't say I've been entirely successful. Tomorrow, I will put it back together, cross my fingers, and switch it on. Wish me luck!

Followup: The dryer part of this washer-dryer combo is back online. At first, the dryer made a squealing noise, but eventually quieted down. At present, the drum replacement seems to be just fine. It cost about $215, and, except for a few cuts due to sharp-edged metal, a dropped clip that disappeared into the depths of the bottom of the washer, it is actually REPAIRED. I could have used more specific help, but, all in all, it has been pretty easy, and pretty effective.

Simply popped it back into place, careful not to break the new handle.

remove top of dryer by prying with large screwdriver to snap back clips that hold it on remove two screws on both sides that hold the door . remove door then remove belt from dryer tub. (to remove belt take the back panel near floor off with screwdriver and lift pullie up that hold belt. )then lift tub upward to disconnect it from it's seat; pull it straight forward to get to the heating element.un bolt it with screwdriver and disconnect the sensor and put new heat element in

First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.

Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.

This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.

I googled and found parts select, listed model make and found parts diagram, found suspected parts from trouble shooting blog. I read repair stories, people who performed identical repairs, followed their lead, made notes ordered parts and
easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.