F1253FDS3 (ASSEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

Just removed the top cover only. Reached down and unplugged the door switch. Then removed the switch with 2 phillips head screws. Replaced with new switch. Reached down and plugged that new switch in. Problem solved!

From previous experiences with other washers, i.e., Sears, I decided it was the mother board or the door latch component. Ordered the electronics and then the discovery that LG has an APP for iPhone. Loaded the app, placed the phone next the washer and pushed the button on the washer. The washer "talked" to the iPhone and within 15 seconds it told me there was a problem with the thermistor. Opened the back of the washer and looked under the tub for the thermistor and found the 2 connecting wires were hanging loose. Put the wires back into the thermistor connection and everything was back working.

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.

Followed the video supplied by this site and everything was as described!

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

Took the sealing ring off the gasket, unscrewed the door lock with two screws. Unplugged it. Plugged the new one in, screwed it back in. Put the ring back on and it started right up.

Removed the front and replaced the bellows. Also watched a YouTube video of someone replacing the bellows of a similar washer.

watched the video provided on site, very helpful for bellow replacement. there was no door hinge video. ordering parts for the bellow replacement, one clamp was on one page of the manual and the other clamp was on the other page, so look at the manuals provided so you can get the right part. the bellow i ordered was suppose to be for the model i have. the part ordered had a drain on the bottom, my bellow did not have a drain so i bought a brass plug, some RTV and a small clamp and fitted the RTV to the plug and installed and fitted the small clamp. All works fine. they do have a part number without the drain at the bottom and would be helpful if the user manual for the model had the exact replacement part number listed, I.E. if customer has a model number it is confirmed or not if that model number has a drain port. i was going to send 2 of the 4 extra clamps for hoses i ordered and clamp for the bellow that was wrong back for credit. i was told i could dispose of the items when i requested a shipping label and i was credited the amount + a $10 nuisance rebate. This Business IMO has exemplary customer service and with my experience i would recommend them

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

I went by the video

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars