EW30DS80RSC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Removed the door from range. Laid it flat on a work surface and installed screws, by hand , carefully

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

First, I watched a lot of videos on YouTube. All of them were very similar, and had similar repair instructions, doing all the work at the site of the regulator location. The gas supply flex line was easily detached, as well as the line that exited the regulator to feed the stove. The gas inlet nipple, however, was not willing to unscrew. My regulator was held on by Phillips head sheet metal screws, which were easy enough to unscrew, so I just removed the regulator, still attached to the gas connection nipple. I went to my shop and placed the regulator in a vise, careful to clamp either end, not the regulator valve itself, and used a deep socket over the nipple, and had to use a Breaker Bar to loosen the nipple. I cleaned the nipple where Pipe Dope had been used, and applied new sealant, then screwed it back on the the Regulator, once again using the socket and bar. Then I threaded the new regulator body with the sheet metal screws while it was clamped in the vise. (The new regulator was not threaded, and I had to use vise grips to hold the screws while turning them in) After that, installation of the new regulator was relatively easy. I wish Frigidaire had used hex head screws instead of the Phillips. After install, range worked perfectly. PartSelect delivered correct part in a timely manner.

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have