EIED55HIW0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

I had difficulty getting the old part out to get the new one in. I just about had to take the gram apart to get to everything.

Tight quarters but went well, fairly easy except for the far back screw that secures the element to back of dryer. Would have been easier if I removed drum but I didn’t want to disassemble that much. All is good and wife is ?? . If need help with disassemble Utube is your friend.

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

Getting to the element and putting the machine back together, in my case, was the most difficult part. There are tons of youtube videos that can guide you through the removal and replacement better than I can. I recomend watching those videos and taking pictures of the old element prior to removing it. Also, I would put all the screws in separate ziplock bags with labels on them because every screw for my model was unique. I would also tape and label the electrical wires too.

I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

as on the video. so easy. took longer to clean-up

removed the top of the cabinet,unplugged wiring from control board, removed screws fastening control board and installed new control board.