DV316BEC Amana Dryer - Instructions

Ordered part on 8/24/22. Received wrong part twice now. It is 9/10/22 and I am waiting for the third. Right part number on package but it contains the wrong part. Beyond mad!

I removed the dryer top and saw that the belt was intact. (I had suspected the belt or something stuck in the exhaust fan or somewhere.) I watched a few youtube videos and took off the rest of the top plates and front door and inner structure that held the barrel. After i inspected and cleaned out the fan blades and exhaust areas, I looked at the pulley rollers (motor and idler rollers). The idler roller looked a little melted and chewed up. I replaced it with the new assembly. Also replaced the belt. Putting the barrel and new belt back on was harder for me than the videos indicated because the spring was very tight and the area to put my hands was small and didn't give me enough leverage. I eventually got someone to give me the third hand pulling the idling roller a little further over and the belt was back on. It didn't take me long to put the whole dryer back together. It is running fine now.

These are not instructions as much as warning that although it is a one-person job, the idler pulley assembly is not as easily manipulated with the barrel there. Doing the fix was straightforward: one screw holds it in place. The men in the videos seemed to have no problem with easily replacing the belt, but I needed help with the tight spring. Perhaps now that I've done it once, I could figure out how to reach around the barrel and yank the roller enough to replace the belt, but with the extra hand it took seconds and was super easy.

Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.

changed high limit switch, and sensor grid and thermo fuse

This was a simple repair. Removed the small access panel where the vent pipe comes through, the roller is right there. Unscrewed the support roller bolt, looking for all the pieces that had broken and fallen inside the housing of the dryer. Using the washers and nut from the old one, put the new roller in place, be aware that you have to lift the drum a little bit to get this new roller in. It could take two people depending on your strength. Tightened down the roller, spin the drum by hand to make sure it was ok, then put the access panel back on and fired it up for a test run.

After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.

You know! I forgot exactly where it was i got the info to fix the problem but, "Parts select" was mentioned. Once I had an idea as to what to do I then, wasted time around town looking for the parts with no results. I then did what I should have at first an ordered the parts from Parts select. got them in the mail, lightning quick! I think I may have found the info here as well,not sure. (this site is awesome None the less) but the info led me to the Thermostat, I then jumped it as indicated and wham!! it ran. Order both the thermostat and thermistor. only problem I ran into was, removing the front display panel. broke some of the retaining clips off in the process. all in all, it was an easy fix that saved me a bunch of dough. greatfull to parts select for a speedy deliverie and to the website that made it possible. think it may have been here at the free repair help, section. awesome and highly recommended thanks!!!

I had a problem a couple of months ago with the dryer not heating and replaced the thermal fuse after checking the the parts with a voltage meter and the dryer worked fine. When I did the repair I also cleaned all the lint out of the dryer, exhaust, and the vent. It worked fine. A couple of weeks ago my wife commented about how hot the dryer was and it seemed unusual. I realized there was another problem but before I could check it, the dryer stopped heating again. Some time ago, the sensor dry funciton quit working so I just went ahead and changed all the electronic componets, the two on the exhaust tube and the two on the heating tube. I assumed the high limit thermostat failed. After unplugging the dryer, I took the two screws loose on the top backside of the dryer that hold the top in place and removed the top, sliding it back. I removed the four screws holding the control panel in place and rotated the panel forward, then up and out of the way. I removed the four screws along the top of the front panel, then the ones from around the opening on the front, and the front door. There was one screw that held the heating tube. I removed it and the tube slid forward. I took the front wire lose and rotated the tube clockwise to pull it out and took off the back wire and changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat. The exhaust tube was right there in the front and all I had to do was change out the parts on it. Everything went back to gether as easy as it came apart and when I plugged the dryer back in, it worked just like new.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!

The repair was pretty easy to install the heat element, but had to replace several other parts do to the manufacturer that had broke off

IMPORTANT!!! Unplug the unit first!! 1 - Remove two screws on the back of the top of the unit. Pull back a little on the top to release it from underneath the control unit on the front of the dryer (the piece with the dial and buttons). 2 - Remove the four screws from the control unit. They are located at the top of the dryer. Pop off the control unit - don't worry about breaking any wires as there are none. 3 - Remove the front of the dryer by removing the four screws that are NOT used for the door and door latch. I had also removed the door latch and door but I don't think it is necessary to remove them. The front will swing out from the bottom where you can unhook it and remove it. 4 - the heating element is located on the front of the unit, bottom right. Either draw a diagram of the wires or take a picture of them with your cell phone. Smart phones are great for this as you can zoom the picture if necessary. Remove the wires (they just push on but it may take some effort to get them off). It's either one or two of the wires that are not part of the wiring harness and they go from one part of the element to another so don't get excited if these wires fall down - you haven't done anything wrong, they are just loose. The one screw in the front holds the element in (the back of the unit just rests in that hole). Remove the screw and pull the unit out. Put the new element in, hook up the wires before positioning the element. Put the screw back in that holds the element and put the rest of the dryer back in the reverse order.

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

I was working on my daughter’s Maytag dryer model MDE 9700 AYW. The dryer had been making a bumping sound for some time. It had the same symptoms a few years back, but it was still under warranty. The repairman had to replace a drum roller. He told her at the time he should replace all of them but he only had one with him. So when my daughter heard a similar sound she assumed it was a drum roller again so I ordered the roller without taking the dryer part. She has four boys that generate a lot of laundry, so she needs her dryer daily. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get the part or do the repairs. The roller arrived very quickly, I think in a couple of days. The drum rollers on the dryer did not need to be replaced. What I found was bumping the side to the dryer because the sheet metal had popped inward. The drum has very little clearance on either side. The side probably could’ve used another crease or something to make it more rigid. My time wasn’t, wasted. I think it was will spent. I found that 3+ years of lint at piled up significantly on everything. The lint on the shroud for the heating coil had already turned brown and could have caused a fire. I would suggest to anyone who’s had a dryer for a while should open it up and vacuum out the lint buildup.
It only takes a Phillips screwdriver and very little time. It’s a very little investment for your peace of mind.

I change the Thermistor 3 bracket and worked well for 10 minutes and the thermistor is broken again