DU8900XB1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.

Thanks for asking.

By the way, it was not blue.

We took the rollers off the old one (new ones came with the dishrack also) and put them on the dishrack (they snapped on). There was also an extra piece that we figured out how to put on. Then slid it in place and it was fine.

Unscrewed the nozzle cap, screwed in the new nozzle cap. What a snap! Sure beats a $75.00 service call and a parts bill that would be double what I paid!

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

Very easy repair. I gently removed the rubber seal at the top of the tub. here I found the 2 holes to screw the new plate into place. Put the seal back over the hole and job done. Thanks for all the help from the very supportive staff. Yes, a woman did this repair. Dishwasher working like brand new!

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

I ORDERED THE PART THAT WAS EASY BUT WHILE THE MACHINE WAS USED FOR HOW LONG I DON'T KNOW WITH OUT THE CAP IT GOT FILLED WITH FOOD AND JUNK. FIRST THING I HAD TO DO WAS EXAMIN THE DOOR AS TO HOW I COULD CLEAN THIS THING OUT. I REMOVED 6 SCREWS THAT HELD THE DOOR TOGETHER AND PULLED EASY CAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT I WAS GETTING INTO. NO PROBLEM THERE WAS NO ELECTRIC PLUGS HOOKED TO THE DOOR. I TOOK IT OUT SIDE AND STARTED USING VINIGAR AND POURING IT INTO THE HOLE AND SHAKING THEN TRYING TO GET IT BACK OUT. WELL THERE IS ONLY ONE POSITION THAT WILL LET THE VINEGAR BACK OUT. I HAD TO HOLD IT SIDEWAYS THEN TILT FORWARD AND IT WOULD RUN OUT AND BRING SOME JUNK WITH IT. THIS WAS A TIME CONSUMING PROCESS BEING YOU COULD NOT SEE INSIDE TO KNOW HOW MUCH JUNK WAS IN THERE. JUST POUR AND DUMP. AND DON'T FOR GET TO SHAKE TO LOOSEN ANY THING LEFT INSIDE.LOL I WAS VERY PROUD OF MYSELF NOT KNOWING FOR SURE IF I FIXED IT OR NOT BUT I TOOK A SHOT I HAD. I DID SOME SCRUBBING AND DEGREASING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR BEFORE I REASSEMBLED IT. THAT WAS EASY AND I CROSSED MY FINGERS ANY WAY. I GOT OUT MY NEW PART AND THE JET DRY I BOUGHT AND STATED TO FILL THE DISPENSER AND IT TOOK HALF THE BOTTLE.YEA !!! I PUT THE CAP ON AND COULDN'T WAIT TO DO A LOAD OF DISHES. EVERY THING IS LOOKING GOOD NOW. THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR MAKING GETTING THE PARTS I NEEDED SO EASY AND SHOWING DIAGRAMS SO I HAD THE RIGHT PART. I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT YOU.

Turned off water and electrical. Removed kickplate at bottom of dishwasher. Unhooked water line, electrical plug and unscrewed valve from frame, noting proper position of valve for new install. The only delay we had was removing the old water line fitting from old valve. We needed the old fitting for the new valve. We solved the problem by soaking valve in boiling hot water to help loosen the connection. Install of new valve was reverse of the removal process. My son did the work and saved me approximately $200 for a service call. I also want to say that ordering the part from your company was less expensive than if I had ordered it locally and gone to pick it up! Your website is extremely helpful, user friendly, and I am recommending it to all my friends when they need to repair an appliance. Thank you!

Pulled the old gasket out with needle nose pliers, cleaned the slot for the gasket, installed the new gasket, needed no tools. This repair took 5 min.

It was a piece of cake, just slapped together and slid it into place!

I bought the kit because it had other parts that I thought I needed.

After turning off the water to the dishwasher, I used the adjustable wrench to remove the incoming water line. Then removed the electrical feed to the water valve. Lastly I removed the rubber hose on the outlet of the valve (after compressing the retaining clip) before removing the one screw that held the valve to the lower frame of the dishwasher. Once the new part arrived, it was simply a matter of reversing the above procedure to install the new part. Took under 15 mins.