DSRF3KGXACWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

There were not detailed instructions provided with the parts, however, it was fairly simple to determine how to remove the old part. First, I removed all the shelves. Then I took out four screws holding the top light cover. The plasic around the back center column was removed with a pannel tool. The plastic around the water filter was also removed. The old Fresh Food Air Inlet was then able to come out. Remove the connector. Reinstall per instructions provided. Install the other parts in order they were removed.

Removed water filter and turned off water supply. Remove the metal plate at the rear bottom of refrigerator and the metal plate at the top rear of the refrigerator that covers the exit of the filter housing from the refrigerator. Then disconnected the water supply line and water line from the filter housing mount to the valves that control water to the door and ice maker. From inside the refrigerator, removed the two bolts holding the filter housing and then removed the filter housing and tubing. Reversed the procedure to install the new top filter housing mount with tubing.

I had Sears comre and check it out. They wanted $188. for the part and wanted $211 to put it in. They had the part in the truck. The fridg is a GE Profile and only 2 years old. Told them to forget it. Took me literally less than 10 minutes. They did a diagnostics, cost me $77. they told me the problem. I ordered the part here. It came in 3 days and the directions included were awesome. straight forward. Nice to know there is a place to go to avoid getting the shaft from appliance giants. Thank You !

The details: removed the 3 screws, took a picture of the board, didn't need it, unplugged the 6 plugs. pushed 3 clipds holding the board, unscrewed the ground, removed the board, lined up the 3 clips and snapped the new board in place, replugged the plugs and screwed in the ground. Plug the fridg in, done. Literally that easy.

The motor shaft stripped and the drive auger spun in place instead of driving the auger to rotate. I had to purchase an entire motor even though the motor itself worked fine. The shaft being stripped had to be hacked off to get the motor out of the assembly. New motor installed, new drive auger installed. Works fine.

opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

Remove ice holding box. Remove rear plastic cover (nut driver) Unplug two Electrical connectors. Place unit on work bench. Remove 'U' fork, vice grip on shaft and scewdiver as lever on fork (counter clockwise) Remove motor fron plastic Holder. Install new motor & fork. Reverse removal steps. Actually very simple procedure. Usual cost for this typwe of repair is approx. $300.00.

Dispencer quit working a year ago, but still still dispenced water. I talked to a service technician about it. He told me the electric motor was froze up, so I orderd a new one. When it arrived I installed it in about 20 minnutes,tried the dispencer and still would not work but this time the water would not dispence eather and this time I noticed the fan quit running and the light went dim when I tried to dispence ice. So I read the customers diagnosis and repares every thing pointed to the main control board, orderd the part and water filter. When they arrived in three days I watched installing this part video and it took me 20 minnutes to install and every thing works fine.

The refrigerator was staying in defrost too long allowing the temperature to rise to the point that part of the ice (probably some of the food too) to melt then re-freeze. I first changed out the temp sensor and thermostat because I wanted to try the cheap stuff first but that didn't fix it, I should have gone with the mainboard first as it was the most likely cause. After putting in the new mainboard in the thing has worked perfectly since. The board was extremely easy to change, take the metal cover off with a nut driver. Carefully unplug the wires from old board and remove the board. The board is mounted on some plastic standoffs that expand after passing through the board, some of these came out while i was disconnecting the wires but some were there to stay until I figured out that I needed to squeeze the top of them to release the board. After getting the old board out just put the new one on the standoffs and connect the wires. Put the cover back on and DONE!

NOTES: The new board had some extra connectors that my old one did not, but the correct connectors were still in the old locations. The instructions that came with the board did talk about making some modifications to the refrigerator wiring on certain models, but that didn't apply to me. If I remember right the models requiring modification were all bottom freezer type. But even if you do have to do this the instrucions looked easy, just cut a couple of wires, no splicing or anything.

After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.