DSF26DHWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were no fastening hardware. The plastic stripper just snaps in place. I had to be patient and could not get it out until I put upward pressure on the stripper.

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone w ... Read more ho has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

Removed old and replaced with new

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the ... Read more outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

This is the second or third time this cup has broken. Maybe we use more crushed ice than the average family, but you would think this part could be more durable. Anyway, I digress. This is about the repair. Four screws removed around bottom of tray, one screw removed for some bar that mechanically opens a door to allow ice to fall out of ... Read more the tray, and two butter knives used to release tabs around the screw components... and we were done.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get ... Read more the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gaske ... Read more t interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.

I removed the old shelf and installed the new one!

I searched YouTube for the problem and was quickly taken to several videos that detailed to required actions. This encouraged me to proceed, so I took the back cover off and found the water valve leaking. I then googled the make and model of the frig and found the part. The YouTube videos provided all of the details needed to determine ... Read more the problem and replace the faulty part. Once the part arrived, I was able to install the new one in a few minutes. Operation returned to the water dispenser and the leak was gone. Total cost of the repair was $56 and took about 1.5 hours to remove the original part, order the replacement and install it when it came. Perfect!

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Unscrewed the outer cover/base of the ice maker. Unscrewed the long lever that opens the ice chute. This freed up the feeder coil enough to pull it out enough to replace the cup drive. Once I replaced the cup drive, I laid it back down into the ice maker bin, reattached all the screws and it wor ... Read more ked! The old cup drive had a tine broken off which would not allow the feeder coil to turn. It seems like a weak part and I anticipate I may have to replace it again in a few years.

I had looked at videos on you tube,it looked simple enough. I mostly do my own repairs so I gave it a shot. the job went well,if you do not fix things around the house don't try to do the repair,find a handyman in your neighborhood to help you out,cheaper than calling a refrigeration man. It is not that hard to do.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white g ... Read more asket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape