DLG2011W LG Dryer - Instructions

The repair was not that difficult but one thing led to another(a small plastic part rolled under the dryer and then the plastic vent pipe broke from age when we pulled the dryer out to find it) and we discovered that the biggest problem was that the pesky ground squirrels in our area had taken up residence in our dryer vent. We found a d ... Read more ead one that had come all the way into the dryer along with the acorn shells it had been eating. The vent itself was almost totally clogged with lint. The flap on the outside was stuck open allowing the ground squirrels to come in and find a nice warm, soft place in which to live. Now the dryer works like a charm but if we hadn't decided to change the gasket we would still be complaining about how long it takes to dry a load of clothes.

This was a repair from a repair. It started as a conversion to LPG, in the process the igniter broke. The parts arrived quickly and we were able to get it back together and the wife is happy. Thanks.

First I just replaced the ignitor on a hunch, (disassembly was easy once I saw the video) I also examined the high limit thermostadt and found it was tripped, so I reset the button. the dryer fired up, but soon the thermo tripped again. I found that I could reach it with my arm placed in the inspection port,( about a 4 inch diameter ... Read more pop out) make sure you unplug first, find the button near the ignitor, and pop it in. the high limit thermo was only holding a few seconds, so I decided to replace it, and did a "shot-gun" approach, replacing all thermos and thermisters at once, only about 35 bucks delivered...BTW, PartSelect shipped them to me at the speed of light.....one day ! Ireplaced all thermos and did and extra scrulpoulous cleaning of the vent. NOTE: it is completely possible that ahe only problem was a reduced vent capacity cmbined with summer heat leading to tripping the high limit thermo....however the thermo was tripping waaaay too easil in my opinion. Anyway, I celebrated doing 10 loads of piled up laundry, and basking in the glory of my wife's admiration for saving a $1000. appliance replacement. "how did you know how to do this honey?" "yoir so smart" (i did'nt tell her about the PartSelect video)

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (t ... Read more o my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside wit ... Read more h the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Foun ... Read more d one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

Unscrew and replace locker hook and assembly, replace screws. That completes door locking assembly repair. To replace the rollers and safety switch assembly, remove back top and front of dryer. Detach and remove control panel and set aside. Remove blower tube at bottom of drum and set all parts and screws aside. Detach all necessary parts ... Read more and depress belt idler pully underneath drum and remove belt. Remove drum and unbolt rollers on the front panel and also on back of dryer. Remove triangular washer and be sure not to damage it. Check axles for damage, and replace new rollers onto axles. Replace all washers and triangular washer and bolt back onto dryer tightly. Be sure to check that all rollers are spinning freely and adjust bolt tightness accordingly. At some point replace dryer door safety switch by pushing it in from the outside. That completes the safety switch repair. Now once all rollers are replaced, reinstall drum and depress idler pully and reinstall the belt untiltension is restored. Reassemble all parts and plug all wiring back in to proper places. Screw everything back together, plug in dryer and start a cycle to confirm repair was effective. This is not a complete guide on the repair, just a basic idea of how I did it. I Googled videos on how it is done and that was of great help. The repair is actually pretty easy but is much easier with two people. There are some other steps but they should be obvious along the way. My dryer runs almost better than new and the repair was pretty easy and straight forward. It is most definitely a repair you can do yourself. Hope this helps you out.