Models > DFE28JGHBBB > Instructions

DFE28JGHBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the DFE28JGHBBB
106 - 108 of 108
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Water filter needed changing.
Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Water Filter
  • Sara from White Plains, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge/Freezer getting too warm
What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Nick from Burnt Cabins, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
Parts Used:
OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO
  • William from Pasco, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the DFE28JGHBBB
106 - 108 of 108