DE24CM Maytag Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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One day the Dryer quit drying.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Lena, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I began by unplugging the dryer cord to cut any power to the appliance. I removed the front two screws that hold the front cover on and removed the front cover. I began by cleaning the lint and dust out of the dryer. After getting a look at it, I Googled Maytag to get an idea of possibilities of the problem. I took out the 4 screws that h
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eld the heating element into the dryer, and unhooked two wirers,( making sure there was no electrical source). I pulled the heating element out and immediately saw that the element wire was broken. I called Partselect and the person on the other end of the line was extremely knowledeable and willing to help. I was given the option of ordering the heating wire and stringinging it in the original housing or I could order the comlpete heating unit for a little more which woold save me from the extra work of installing it and also insure that the insulators that the wires went through were all new and I would not have to inspect each one and possibly have the same problem later if I missed a bad one and the heating element would short out and I would be back where I was now. I felt good that in hard economic times I could get my appliance up and running without calling the repairman @ 100dollars an hour. There was a fantastic sense of accomplishment that I fixed it myself! I could brag about that. Before I would throw the appliance away and get another used one. I had already shopped the local papers and craigs list but did not need to leave the house for it and arrange hauling because the parts were sent to my house and I was able to repair it myself. It was really a rewarding experiance and turned out fantastic! Parselect was a pleasure to deal with.
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dryer filter screen broken
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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suzanne from Ottawa, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I didn't think it would fit as it looked bigger then the old one, I called the service department and they were very helpful. They made note of the fact that I had called with questions in case I had to call again, but it worked, and no one laughed at me. It was very nice of them. Thank you for all the help
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Button to start dryer
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Loretta E. from Miamisburg, OH
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
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One of the roller shafts was worn
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Springfield, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.
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Replacing the heating unit
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Franklin, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the front 2 screws witha phillips shorty due to there proximity to the floor. I removed the heater plate the wiring and the heating element in about 10 minutes, the only issue I had was sue to the fact that the heater is 2 pieces and not totally cylindrical it was kind of a pain to get it back into the hole on the back side, I e
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nded up having to form it better into a circle so that I could get it in. After that the rest putting it back together was no big deal. The unit now works great.
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Squeaking noise
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Daphne, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to
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just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks
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When the dryer grumbles check the blower wheel too.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from MArietta, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
If your dryer is making a rumbling noise, change the blower wheel. It's plastic and the heating and cooling cycles causes the keyway in the plastic to give out and the wheel just spins causing the noise and the slower dry time. The other parts I replaced see below. Like many other repairs, remove screws below dryer door. Mark all wi
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res and locations for re-assembly. Next remove front tumbler/lint screen assembly (4 sheet metal screws 2/L 2/R. Work belt off back of tumbler and remove. Use flathead screw driver to release tabs that hold felts on both front and back tumble supports. Make sure you know rotation of tumbler and install new felts so the overlap goes in direction of spin. Use a drum stick or 3/8 ratchet extension, something dull and flat to press tabs back down on felts. A screwdriver could slip off and tear cloth. Next drill out heads of the rivets on the glides and remove teflon glide and cork backer. Make sure all rivet material is removed front and back. Install new cork and glide. Rivet one side back in, then the other. Repeat on 2nd glide. Re-assemble dryer. Super smooth, super quiet.
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Squealling clothes dryer.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Port Jefferson, NY
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sl
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iding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.
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electric dryer stopped heating - the thermostat got very hot
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ignas from Midpines, CA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find whe
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re they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.
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blower fan central stem broke off. was making a bad noise.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from EASTPOINTE, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
We had trouble getting the front of the dryer off; we tried to pry the top off. It works better if you remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel ;) Once we had the front off, we used a 1/4" ratchet wrench to take the front off the fan housing. We took off the compression clamp off easily with a pair of priers. Removing the retain
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er clip was harder; we ddn't have the right tool. We removed the broken fan. We ordered the part, easy peasy, from this website. Had to buy a $9 tool to put the retainer washer back on. We reassembled the fan housing and put the fron back on. It worked! Total cost: ~$30.00. Actual time (excluding waiting for parts and buying tools): 2 hours.
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Motor Bearings Were Bad Causing A High Pitch Squeak / Squealing Noise When Dryer Was Running
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cody from BENTON, TN
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
First, it is IMPERATIVE that the dryer is unplugged from the wall or the appropriate breaker is turned off to prevent electrocution!!! The front of the dryer is removed by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front with a Phillips head screwdriver. Next, remove the door wiring from the wiring clamp and set front / door of dryer
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to the side. Next, remove the bulk head by removing four nuts from the sides with the appropriate nutdriver. The drum belt will have to be disconnected from the motor pulley by lifting the spring of the pulley to release belt tension. This can be done from the front or back access panel of the dryer. The back access panel gives you a better view of the motor pulley and attached belt. After removal of the belt from the motor pulley, the drum of the dryer can be removed. Next, remove the heat shield at the front of the dryer. It is held on with two nuts and can be removed using the appropriate nut driver. Next, remove the blower wheel housing cover using the appropriate nut driver. The blower wheel will be next. It can be removed by using a pair of pliers to remove the circular clamp. A pair of snap-ring pliers will also be need to remove the snap-ring also holding the wheel in place on the motor axle. After the blower wheel is removed from its housing, the housing will need to be removed. The housing is again held in place by several nuts and the appropriate nut driver will be needed to remove them. Next, take all wiring loose from the motor. It would be a good idea to photograph or note how and what wires were attached in specific locations on the wiring harness. The new motor may be different when it comes to wiring and will be accompanied by a wiring diagram and the needed connection ends for the wiring. If it is a different wiring layout, as was my motor that I ordered from this site, a set of wiring strippers / pliers will be needed to cut, strip, and crimp the new connectors. After wiring has been removed from the motor, remove the motor by removing two nuts with the appropriate nut driver from the bottom of the motor mount. The motor, mount, and pulley will then all come out as one piece. The motor will then need to be removed from the mount. This can be accomplished by using a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. Place the flat end of the screwdriver into the raised edge of the motor mount clamp and pull away from the locking bracket. If needed, use a hammer to give that extra tap to the end of the screwdriver to remove the clamps. After the motor is removed from the mount, an Allen wrench will need to be utilized to take the belt glide / seat off of the motor axle. You will also need the snap-ring pliers again to remove a snap ring from this axle as well. Clean the motor mount and dry thoroughly. Grease the pulley housing where it contacts the motor mount for smooth gliding against the mount. It is important that you use a NON-FLAMMABLE grease. This is the end of the "tear-down" phase. Now is a good time to vaccum and clean the inside of the dryer cabinet. This will help insure that excess lint and fuzz is removed to prevent an accidental dyer fire. Next, place the new motor back into the motor mount in reverse order. Make sure the belt glide / seat from the motor axle aligns with the belt marks on the pulley. Reassemble the dryer in reverse order, making sure to follow the wiring diagram provided with your new motor. Also you need to insure that the motor is turned at a 45 degree angle to allow the dryer drum to pass the motor without striking it. After reassembly, plug in the dryer and attempt to start. If your dryer does not start, troubleshoot the wiring first. Wiring was the most difficult part of this repair and working in the tight space provided was a trick. Also look up a video of the repair! This helped me tremendously. Videos can be found on this site or at YouTube.com.
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heater burned out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Jay from Estacada, OR
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
This is going to be easy!!!
#1 First removed two screws at the bottom of the front cover Pulled the bottom out first to loosen the top and then gently pulled down to remove front cover.
#2 took a duster to remove the dust and cob webs:)
#3 Looked at the parts and then removed the heater element I used a SHORT nut driv ... Read more er for that.
#4 Once removed I inspected the parts farther to look for more damage (there was no more)
Now the fun part...
#5 The heater assembly. go's into the hole at an angle. You MUST be really tiny or have freakishly long arms to reach the back and screw that screw in.
#6 have wife with small hands that wants to try while you vent your frustration because you cant reach the screw hole and you lost a screw.
#7 Be ready to push hard on the assembly. while you screw the screw back into the hole.
#8 put the front of the heater back on.....check to make sure its all in there and hooked up like it should be.
#9 put front cover back on.
#10 dry clothes, and wonder why it was so hard. knowing is half the battle, Its going to be a 10 min job next time.
#1 First removed two screws at the bottom of the front cover Pulled the bottom out first to loosen the top and then gently pulled down to remove front cover.
#2 took a duster to remove the dust and cob webs:)
#3 Looked at the parts and then removed the heater element I used a SHORT nut driv ... Read more er for that.
#4 Once removed I inspected the parts farther to look for more damage (there was no more)
Now the fun part...
#5 The heater assembly. go's into the hole at an angle. You MUST be really tiny or have freakishly long arms to reach the back and screw that screw in.
#6 have wife with small hands that wants to try while you vent your frustration because you cant reach the screw hole and you lost a screw.
#7 Be ready to push hard on the assembly. while you screw the screw back into the hole.
#8 put the front of the heater back on.....check to make sure its all in there and hooked up like it should be.
#9 put front cover back on.
#10 dry clothes, and wonder why it was so hard. knowing is half the battle, Its going to be a 10 min job next time.
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Blower wheel worn replaced belt became it looked worn
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from NEW CASTLE, DE
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Fallowed instructions on YouTube
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Original tumbler/motor belt broke. Gas Dryer
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Joseph from HALETHORPE, MD
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I UNPLUGGED TH UNIT.Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel in place, disconnected the electrical leads on the panel. These screws are located on each side of the panel 3 in. from the bottom. Removed the 4 screws holding the shroud. Disconnected the ground wire on the shroud & set both aside. Installed the new belt per the diagr
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am & instructions. Turned the tumbler by hand a few times to verify proper installation. Re-installed the shroud & front panel including reconnecting the leads & ground wire. You need to use both hands in a tight space to install the belt on the pulley & guide(a littledificult) The new belt fit perfectly & the instructions were easy to follow & accurate.
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Dryer was noisy and stalling. Taking twice as long to dry clothes and using more electricity
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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RIchard from New Era, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt fray
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ed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!
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