CYE22UP2MBS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Watch this very good refrigerator evaporator fan replacement video

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.

followed install on line

Unplug refrigerator or turn off circuit breaker.

Insert knife blade or other thin blade into joint at bottom of screen bezel (where there is a color change) and pry up slightly until top of bezel pops out. Probably need to do this in several places until the entire top edge is out slightly. Pull the top of bezel out slightly and lift up to remove.

Remove 4 1/4" hex head screws to loosen control panel. Pull control panel out from door and remove three wiring connectors. You can now completely remove panel from refrigerator door.

Use T15 Torx driver to remove 5 screws on main circuit board and 2 on the small attached board. Remove and save plastic insulator piece.

Install new boards and insulator piece using the Torx screws. Reconnect the three wiring connectors and remount the control panel using the hex head screws.

Reinstall the screen bezel by sliding the bottom in first. Align the tabs on the bezel with the mating slots in the lower panel. When bezel is all the way down push in the top edge to engage the retainer clips.

Plug in refrigerator or turn on circuit breaker. Control should now go through the startup sequence.

1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.

2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.

Found very little flow directly after the valve.

Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.