CW2079CWD LG Washer - Instructions
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It was torn and leaking.
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Denise from Show Low, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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Washer will not power on
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Robert from Damascus, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disconnected power. Removed washer top; only 2 screws in back. Disconnected two wire connectors on Filter Assembly Circuit. Removed assembly; 1 screw. Installed new assembly, reconnected wires, and replaced washer top.
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Drum not rotating
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Jim from Oak ridge, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced rotor assembly by removing the back panel off the washer. Removed center bolt to be able to take out roto assembly. Magnets made it a little resistant, but with a little wiggling came off fairly easily.
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Will not start after dorr is closed. Shows Code dE. Door locks properly, two clicking is heard before code shows up.
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Juan from Anaheim, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequenc
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e. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.
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My Washing Machine was not draining properly
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matt from Fuquay Varina, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.
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water would not drain, nothing jamming pump
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nicole from chicago, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.
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water leaking fromdoor
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Walter from Deland, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
remove the front part of the machine to get to the door hinge.
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Leaking Hot Water Intake Valve
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Thomas from Commack, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the
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two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC
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Washer will not drain, bad noise coming from bottom front of washer
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James from Kingman, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off.
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There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.
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Not pumping out water
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Patrick from Ronkonkoma, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG
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PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.
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door would not lock
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Eileen from Allen Park, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop
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wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.
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Washer not draining & grinding sound when it hit the drain cycle
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Robert from Odessa, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Followed the instructions that a fellow DIYer posted in PartSelect and a few I watched on Youtube. Pull out the detergent drawer, remove the back screws, slide the top off, unclip the control board, unplug Power & One more switch so that I could move it aside. Take the gasket retention wire off the door gasket & tuck it inside. Remove
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the screws in the bottom & top. Then slide the front panel, including the door up (not easy) and out. The part received was only the pump motor so I had to take a few pictures before so I knew I got it together right. Remove drain houses, pump screws, slide pump back and remove pump. A few more screws to remove the pump from the housing & replace with new pump. Put it all back together. It works! It only took about 45 minutes
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OE CODE - The washer machine would not drain
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Gustavo from Ukiah, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the botto ... Read more m left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the botto ... Read more m left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.
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Pool of water under washer after a run
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Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under
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the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
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Unit would not start up
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LES from GAINESVILLE, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Conclusion was that either the control panel or the noise filter (an electrical fuse apparatus)was bad. Disconnected the water line, turned off power, and pulled unit out from cabinets. Determined that voltage was going into the noise filter (white harness) but almost no voltage coming out (red harness). Ordered noise filter. Hardest part
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was removing old noise filter from dishwasher frame without removing the whole unit from cabinet and turning upside down.One screw holds the part in the frame. With power off, I used a very small ratchet with phillips screw driver. Pried unit out with screw driver on side to the panel front. It has a retaining tab there.Installation was the reverse. Instead of putting screw back the way it was originally installed, I screwed it in from the outside of the frame. Much easier and just as solid. Tested unit with power on. Hooked up water line. Works great. Note: LG dishwahers have a high repair rate and that this part has a high failure rate. This LG unit was two years old. Never had to fix my 15 year old Sears dishwasher. It still works to this day. (I gave it to my daughter.)
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