CVM517P2M1S1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

First, I waste $65 by calling some "REPAIR" service. They showed at home and charge me that just to tell me
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!

Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.

The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.

This is the second time that this lamp hase gone out. It is located in a small space in the top of the microwave and you need to remove the top front pannel, then take a screw or two out of a metal shield and bend the shield up to get your hand into the compartment where, if you know how, you can reach in and lift out the reflector shield that the lighbulb is plugged into and remove the old one and plug in the new one. The first time was hard to figure out how to do it but the second time wasn't bad because I knew how to do it.

*Remove Two Phillips head screws from the top of vent slide the vent left to remove it. Take the charcoal filter out then the metal cover underneath the filter. It also has a phillips head screw. bulb socket is on right facing down. Squeeze the metal clips and remove socket from bracket. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

After removing the screws holding the 2 cover plates in position, I removed the halogen light bulbs with my fingers. Then I placed a paper towel around the first replacement bulb and lined up the two wire connectors with the two holes in the receptacle. I pushed in, but the bulb's probes did not slide into the receptacle. I spent five minutes aligning and pushing but to no avail. Then I removed the filter screen on the side of the receptacle, shined a flashlight beam on the receptacle, and with an improved view of the two holes in the receptacle, slid the bulb in. The second bulb was inserted in a few minutes, and the job was done. Whoever designed the halogen bulb was not as bright as Thomas Edison.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.

BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????