CVG4380W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Since the other three burners sparked, I traced the problem to the switch on the valve shaft. To replace, (after unplugging the power cord) I pulled off the knobs, removed the two screws on the valve cover (inside the downdraft vent) and pulled the switch up the shaft to remove. I transferred the spade terminals to the replacement switch, oriented and installed.

The only fan switch available for Jenn-Air was electrically compatible (amps, high/low control) with my 15 year old unit, but the existing mounting plate needed to be modified. The original switch was an undermount and the replacement switch snapped in from the top. This modification required a 1/2" drill bit and a file to square off the edges. Since the plate was cast from soft aluminum, it was fairly easy. Also, one of the spade connections needed to be changed (part supplied). It now looks good and works fine.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I removed the burner knobs, unscrewed the 2 screws and removed the cover. I pulled the old switch off the stem and removed the wires. I reconnected the wires to the new switch and pushed it in place on the stem. After checking to make sure the new igniter switch worked, I replaced cover tightened the 2 screws and replaced the knobs. Job done in 5 minutes!

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Extremely easy.
First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).
Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.
I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).
Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.
(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).
Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.
I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!

Turn off power, removed wires from switch, unscrewd lock nuts. Did the reverse to put the new switch with the exception of the the power which should always be turned off first. Took less than 5 min. to install. Wife happy!! which makes me happy.

So very easy!!!! I'm a 70 year old grandmother with a small socket set - and that's all I needed! Removed one small screw, removed old burner, popped new burner in, replaced one screw, and back in business! Placed order, received it in 2 days, fixed burner. So much faster than calling a repairman!

Removed old burner, replaced with new one, works perfectly! Only one screw to take out and use with new piece.

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the electric supply. Remove the top grates and the burner cartridges. Remove 12 screws around the top cover and loosen the two screws for the fan switch. Pull the fan switch up and out of the way, remove the top cover. With a marking pen, label the four igniter switches and pull them off the gas valves. From underneath, remove the gas line from the pressure regulator, then remove the regulator from the pipe coming from the circular manifold. With a 3/16 socket (1/4 inch drive) or a 3/16 nut driver, remove the four screws that hold the manifold. Then from the top pull the manifold up and out. On the bottom, remove the screw (1/4 inch socket or nut driver) and remove the old gas valve. That's it. Now just put it all back together in reverse order. I used pipe joint compound on the pipe threads. Check for leaks with a soapy water solution. If I had to do this again, it would only take me half the time. I wasn't sure how everything came apart the first time..