CRSH232PS7A Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

At first glance I didn't see the screws that would permit me to get to the actuator but I lifted the small tray at the bottom and there were two screws. Everything went easily.

very easy to do. just snap into place

Remove power from refrigerator. Pull out the drip tray below paddle. Removed the 3 screws behind tray. Gently pull control panel out and remove the ribbon cable plug from panel. Set panel aside. Remove three screws holding panel housing to door, then pull out housing slightly and disconnect harness plug behind left side of housing. Pull housing out 3-4 inches. Look at the way paddle tabs engage ice dispenser switch mechanism. Remove the left paddle hinge screw and plate and loosen the right hinge screws(these also hold the water paddle hinge) Remove broken paddle by pulling out from right hinge plate and down. Install new paddle under right hinge plate, engage new paddle tabs correctly onto dispenser switch, install left hinge plate and screw, then tighten hinge screws. Reconnect harness plug, reinstall 3 housing to door screws, reconnect ribbon plug to control panel and reinstall panel screws. Reinstall drip tray. Reconnect power to refrigerator and check operation of ice and water paddles.

I removed the ice container found the part # on the bottom ordered a new one and installed it. It just slipped right in to place.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

I took the side cover off. With a Phillips unscrewed the screw, took the outer part off, with nut driver undid the two screws. Took the part out in screwed the 4 Phillips head screws. Took out the broken part, replaced with new part. Reassembled. Put filter in and it now works perfectly.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

I unplugged the fridge and removed the dispenser's drip plate. There are 3 screws holding the front fascia. I carefully slid the fascia up to removed it. I unplugged it from what looks like a circuit board from the dispenser. Remove 3 more screws that held the board exposing the ice dispenser's hole and the water actuator. To give myself a little more room to work, I disconnected the board from the fridge. Attempted to removed the water hose but i couldn't, but found out didn't need to. I used a longer philip's screwdriver to unscrew two very small plates that were holding the actuator in place. Need a magnitized screwdriver for this, my hands are too big to reach in there. It took about 15 minutes. NO extra parts or additional parts to order.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve