CPDS3085KF4 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

First, I watched a lot of videos on YouTube. All of them were very similar, and had similar repair instructions, doing all the work at the site of the regulator location. The gas supply flex line was easily detached, as well as the line that exited the regulator to feed the stove. The gas inlet nipple, however, was not willing to unscrew. My regulator was held on by Phillips head sheet metal screws, which were easy enough to unscrew, so I just removed the regulator, still attached to the gas connection nipple. I went to my shop and placed the regulator in a vise, careful to clamp either end, not the regulator valve itself, and used a deep socket over the nipple, and had to use a Breaker Bar to loosen the nipple. I cleaned the nipple where Pipe Dope had been used, and applied new sealant, then screwed it back on the the Regulator, once again using the socket and bar. Then I threaded the new regulator body with the sheet metal screws while it was clamped in the vise. (The new regulator was not threaded, and I had to use vise grips to hold the screws while turning them in) After that, installation of the new regulator was relatively easy. I wish Frigidaire had used hex head screws instead of the Phillips. After install, range worked perfectly. PartSelect delivered correct part in a timely manner.

First of all I am not Betty, I am her husband. Second I and a friend pulled the range out of the countertop (which was not necessary). The top can be raised on it hinges and the plate under the burners can be removed by taking out 8 to 19 screws and there is the thermostat looking at you. After doing this once and knowing where the thermostat is, the job could be done in less that an hour.. INSTRUCTIONS: Turn OFF the circuit breaker. Remove the burners. Remove the plate under the burners. Change the thermostat (making sure to place in correct direction as the one removed). Reassemble, turn on circuit breaker, test oven heat.

replaced it

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

Took 6 screws out holding the top on from the sides. Lifted the top front, popped out the spark module, Took 6wires off & reversed the processed to install the new one. I was really amazed when I ordered it Wednesday and it arrived on Friday. Believe me I bookmarked this site.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair