CLCG900FW2 Crosley Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

The part number was on the knob itself. I did a google search and found it at this site and ordered it. My initial surprise was how fast i received the part. I installed it in about 3 seconds and it's been fine ever since.

I will definitely use this site again. Easy part identification and FAST SHIPPING!

Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shock absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

Unscrewed two screws, replaced door striker and screwed the same two screws back in! I was done in less than 3 minutes!

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

Clear a work space, set up bins for parts, there are a lot of them, so upon removal, put all parts in same place (motor bolts in same box as motor, etc), use a digital camera to capture where everything goes.
Remove back, remove front lower access panel. Remove all plumbing from tug. Remove belt and large pulley from back (tap gently with mallet around perimeter to remove). Unhook motor wire connector, cut the zip tie. Remove the motor (4 bolts). Separate the front seal, remove the shock absorbers (use a deep socket to push in plastic tabs). Now the fun part, carefully tilt the washer back to the floor (2 people, it is heavy), while supporting the tub, to keep it from over swaying (I cut a 2x4 to size, put it between the tub and the lips of the side walls to keep it in place).
You should now be able to remove the springs (leverage them out with old screw driver), clear all parts from the tub. You can then lift the washer housing from the tub vertically. You should then be able to access the tub clearly. Remove the counter weights, set aside carefully, they are fragile. Remove the bolts holding the tub together.
Tap out the tub.
Reverse the process to put back together. Careful not to over tighten the bolts on counter weights or motor.

Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.

drum vane had a hole in it replaced it using phillips screwdriver removed one screw ,pulled drum vane towards the door then pulled up replaced it reversing the procedure. It actually seemed to fix my leak during spin cycle

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

Removed (1) philips screw in toward back of vane (closest to rear of drum), pulled the vane forward to remove it, slid the new one in place, replaced the screw, and was done in less than two minutes. Piece of cake.