CLCG900FW1 Crosley Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.

I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

I read the input of others who had this problem with this washer and how they had replaced the door lock and switch assembly. I figured it was worth the $70-$80 part versus the $540 repair or purchasing a new machine. I was really happy with the machine until this problem occurred.
When I got the new part.....I unplugged the machine. Took out two screws in the back of the top panel. Removed the top of the machine. Took out two screws in the front of the machine that hold the door lock ans switch assembly into place. I unplugged the three wires from the old part (be careful not to drop the old or new part....if you choose to do this by reaching in from the top like I did for this repair.....easier than removing the entire front of the machine.)
I plugged the three wires into the new part and positioned the new part in the door lock position. Replaced the two screws. Put the cover back on the top and replaced the two screws that hold the top cover on the machine.
I was thrilled when it worked perfectly. What a relief!
Sure glad I looked at this website and tried this! The repairman really didn't know enough about my machine....obviously. I'd like to call him and tell what was really wrong so next time he'll know.

Removed the the two screws holding access panel on the bottom front. Shocks use two plastic retaining pins on each shock. Used a screwdriver to push down on the locking tab on the plastic retaining pin ant pushed out. One of the pins is behind the water pump and a bit harder to access. I used a socket with an extension to push it out. installed new shocks with old pins and was back in business. Shocks go in a certain way so be sure to look at the instructions that come with the replacement shocks. Note: the replacment shocks that came don't look anything like the originals. Originals looked more like an automotive shock. Also as both shocks were broken, I ordered two, not knowing that they come two to a package. When you order that is not clear. So now I have an extra set, which might not be bad to have on hand. Kit also comes with an extra pin in case you break one.

I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)

First I turned off the breaker to the washer.

Then I removed the drain pump motor, saw that it was broken, and ordered a new one with expedited shipping. It was delivered about 36 hours later.

I should have used my wet/dry vac to suck out all of the water remaining in the drain lines. Because I didn't, nasty water dripped all over my laundry room. Lesson learned!

The part arrived at 2:20. I had to pick up my kids at school at 3pm. I wasn't sure I'd have time, but I tried anyway. I first removed the screws holding the entire pump assembly to the floor of the washer. Then I attempted to remove the clamps holding the three hoses onto the pump / motor assembly. I tried with regular pliers for about 10 minutes and finally realized I needed locking pliers. Mine are missing, but I have a stone mason doing a project at my house. I borrowed his and immediately had the clamps loosened. I slid them back onto the hoses, inserted the pump motor into each hose one by one, and reattached the clamps.

I ran a little water into the washer, checked to see that it didn't leak upon draining, then started a load and left to get my kids from school.

This was a very easy repair. The part was $75 plus about $20 for the expedited delivery. The Sears service call would have been $65 just to walk in the door PLUS whatever they would have charged me for the labor and the part. I am guessing I saved over $200.

The worst part was the gross water remaining in the drain lines. This would have been easily avoided if I'd just taken the time to get the shop vac. Learn from me and don't skip this step!!

First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

disconnected the power cord,removed two screws on lower front edge of machine, removed lower front cover. Got the wet vac ready to suck up the water in the rubber boots when I took the clamps off. Disconnect the pump wires, and two bolts that mounted the pump. wrestled off the boots, and cleaned out the junk in the bottom of the main boot, sucking up water as the boots came off. then reversed the process. Not bad at all. Makes you want to double check for coins so they don't destroy the pump impeller.

this repair was easy, but it was repair #3.
#1: Fix-it guy said the front control board needed replaced. Ordered part from box store. Shoulda come here!
#2: Replaced motor control board. Harder to replace. Shoulda let the new front board run error code first. Again, used brand name supplier. Oops!
#3: Still not spinning. Error code "Door is open" but it's closed.
Remove door lock/switch assy, wires to the front board, and striker. 4 screws, 15 minutes. reached in through the top (did NOT unseat rubber around door).
Plugged wires into door lock. Inserted striker. Using multimeter on "Ohms" tested switch. No continuity=switch not closed.
New switch cost less, arrived faster. thank you Parts Select!

Replaced the old striker with the new one in about 5 minutes. Just needed a phillips screwdriver. Unbelievable how hard it was to find the part at local store...much easier to order from partselect. If I break it again, I will be all set. Part cost $7 vs repairman visit at a cost of at least $200 - - was worth the effort.

after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!

Watched video which was very helpful

UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.