CG206B-E Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

This wasn't a repair; it was a desperately needed replacement. I simply popped off my old knobs and put the new ones on in less than 1 minute. The new knobs took years off my beloved gas Jenn-Air stove.
The knobs arrived within two days of placing my order. Outstanding customer service. I will order from this company again and again.

removed 2 screws to access the ignitor. Discinnected the wires from the old ignitor and slid the old ignitor off. Installed the new ignitor and attached wires.

Turn off the power to the appliance. Remove the two screws from the control panel. Turn the panel over leaving all wires attached. Others have complained about the difficulty in removing the old push nuts and installing the new ones – this way worked quickly and easily for me: to get the old nuts off – take an awl and wedge it between the flat part of the push nut and the plastic mounting tab of the switch body. Pull the awl upwards until it is parallel with the mounting post. The push nuts will break, use needle nose pliers to remove the broken push nuts. Pull the old switch out noting the orientation. Place the new switch in place over the mounting posts. The new push nuts are not too small, it just takes some force to get them on (a good thing, it keeps the switch in place). Easy way to get the new nuts on: take a small nut driver that is the same diameter as the new push nuts on a straight handle, and use it to force the new push nuts onto the posts. Move the wires from the old switch to the new one. Turn the panel back over, replace the two screws, restore power to the appliance. It is a 10 minute job with the right tools.

The repair was super-easy, the hardest part was removing the old screws and switch. I slid a putty knife under the old switch and used that to pry up while I unscrewed the nuts. The new switch was a very snug fit on the two studs, which was nice, but the nuts included with the new switch were too small as-is. I could have driven a punch through to increase the diameter, but I kept my old nuts and re-used them instead.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Since the other three burners sparked, I traced the problem to the switch on the valve shaft. To replace, (after unplugging the power cord) I pulled off the knobs, removed the two screws on the valve cover (inside the downdraft vent) and pulled the switch up the shaft to remove. I transferred the spade terminals to the replacement switch, oriented and installed.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

Be sure to turn power off; then follow the instructions on the older posts.

I removed the burner knobs, unscrewed the 2 screws and removed the cover. I pulled the old switch off the stem and removed the wires. I reconnected the wires to the new switch and pushed it in place on the stem. After checking to make sure the new igniter switch worked, I replaced cover tightened the 2 screws and replaced the knobs. Job done in 5 minutes!

Simply remove old control knobs and replaced with the new ones. I talked to the saleswoman and she was extremely helpful and assured me it was the right part. And it was.

Very easy repair. Disconnected the old fan switch, replaced with new one...The only problem with the new one is the round nuts that come with the new switch are not big enough to fit around the fixed posts on the stove...The solution...I saved the old ones.....

We've been wanting to replace these parts ever since we moved into our home. It was an amazingly easy process. The range looks like new. PartSelect was a great company to work with. You could track your product's mailing status easily online. One of the grates arrived with several scratches on it. When we contacted PartsSelect, they immediately sent us a new grate. We are very pleased with this company, and we will use them for future appliance parts needs.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.