CFGF368GCE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve requires 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site

The top of the door trim broke causing the side and glass to be loose. Easy fix by removing the broken trim and installing the new one.

Approximately 2 minutes to replace.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.

took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that

After turning the power off and once I removed the back panel to access the wiring, the soot at the contact point of the short circuit was easily visible. It was the oven bulb socket that had come loose and caused the problem. I insulated the wire at the terminal point and reattached the fixture. All in less than 15 minutes.I turned the power back on and now it's good as new.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.

I looked up the problem on YouTube and it said it was the oven temperature probe was going out. So I ordered the probe and it was shipped out, received within two days. Took out a few screws on the back of the stove installed it, put it all back together and it’s working perfect.

The youtube video clearly described how to remove the back panel and how to replace the probe.
The repair took maybe 20 minutes to complete and 1/2 of that time was spent cleaning behind and underneath the range!
Range is working perfectly now!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.