CFEF325GSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

Replaced switch by according to video with no issues, Terminals were nearly identical as the new switch.

The terminals on the new burner were not located in the same position as the terminals on the old burner. I had to reference the wiring diagram to locate the correct wire to terminal location. There was not enough slack in the wires to position the new burner in the same position as the old burner. I had to rotate the new burner so the wires would reach. This cause me to have to rotate the warming burner because rotating the new burner, the terminals interfered with the terminals on the warming burner. I also had to reposition some of the wires so they would not contact the burner and terminals.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.

Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.

Removed the backing, removed the old part and disconnected the wires (after taking a quick photo so we knew where to reconnect them on the new part). Removed clock/timer facing and placed on new part. Reconnected the wires to the new part and screwed it back in. Oven now works great without spending the $300 we were quoted by the repair man!!

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!