CFE28TP3MID1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Slipped into place easily.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

Pull the fridge out from the wall.
Close the water supply valve.
Unplug the appliance.
Using a nutdriver , remove the panel at the lower rear. Set aside.
Disconnect the water supply line from the solenoid valve.
Using the nutdriver, remove the defective water valve.
Disconnect the electrical connector noting orientation.
Remove the black safety device from the valve where the quick connect line goes to the dispenser. Depress the ring on the fitting and remove the gray dispenser line.
Discard the defective valve.
Insert the dispenser line into the quick connect fitting on the new valve. Ensure that the line goes all the way into the fitting.
Reconnect the electrical connector.
Install the valve and connect the supply line.
Reinstall the panel.
Open the supply line valve.
Plug in the refrigerator.
Test. There well be some gurgling as water refills the system.
If no leaks and water dispenses properly, push the fridge back against the wall.
Enjoy!

Once I received that New Part, just place the 1 Piece from the old Shelf into the New Part and mounted the Shelf in the Door.

It snapped in place.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

I diagnosed the sensors in my refrigerator by holding the sensor in and seeing if I could trick the sensor it partially worked. I then used a multimeter and did an ohm test on both sensors multiple times open and closed the switch to verify which switch failed because it worked a couple times but not always. It ended up being the switch on the left hand door with 3 terminals on it and after the replacement it has worked great for weeks now no issue. best 15 dollars and 25 minutes spent!

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Replaced the water solenoid that has a filter/screen as part of the unit.
Removed the back bottom plate. Turned off water supply, removed hose from water valve. Removed valve assembly, and un-pluged wiring. Installed new unit reverse of removal

Pulled the instructions up on U-tube and followed them. With the socket removed 5 small bolts. Took the old switches ( I replaced both switches being I had it apart), put the new switches in and then put the 5 bolts back in.