CFCP1NIXBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

I removed the top vent and unplugged the ice machine ,took the back cover off the freezer.Removed the old fan which was pretty easy(unplugged it after I took the housing out for easy access) I plugged the new fan in and put everything back in the order I took off, and yada yada yada we have cooling.

I changed the filter first as this has happened before when the filter got too old. Still did not work, so ordered the double outlet water valve as the ice dispenser was working. The part was easy to install with the video directions. However, water still did not dispense. Felt the water coil behind the crisper in the refrigerator and it seemed kind of hard. I wondered if it was frozen. Took a hair dryer to it for about 45 seconds and then tried the water again. Voila' This time it worked. Apparently it WAS frozen. I may have not needed to change the filter or water valve, but everything is working fine so I will leave well enough alone.

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

I thought it must be the water valve leaking by so I ordered one and put it on myself which was a very easy job. It fixed my problem and everything works fine now. First I unplugged the refrigerator shut off water line block shutoff valve. Then I removed the back plate on refiigerator. Then I removed the water line from the water valve. After that I unplugged the two wiring harnesses. Then I removed the two plastic water lines from water valve. then I inbolted the water valve from refrigerator. Then I got new valve, plugged both water lines into it, plugged both wiring harnesses back into it, hooked main water line back up then turned water back on.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

There were no instructions on how to relpace the divider guide so it took me a while to realize that I had to remove the guide under the ice maker first. Once that was done the metal bar that supports the front of the divider guide and the divider itself could be positioned. It did take a little force to push the guide into its proper vertical position. After that the the guide under the ice maker could be replaced.

In replacing the freezer door I wasn't careful to pull both glides out together so the geared tracking mechanism came apart. Once that was put back together and carefully pulled out the freezer door was able to be replaced.

Turned water supply off; pressed dispenser sw to release presure ; cut tubing holding reservoir ; nuit driver to release screw holding reservoir and pulled out ; took outside and used hose nozzle to try to clear; did not clear at first then took weedeater string and disloged something and water flowed freely; turned out had to change waer solenoid valve (both) as the one for the water dispener was also plugged which did not show up before.
P.S. Had back flow water thru system before and changes of parts. Water flowed freely.

I watched a you tube video for 2 minutes & did the replacement in1 minute.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

First, removed all items in the freezer, placed into a cooler. Removed basket and door from the glide rails. Installed new divider using two supplied screws with a nut driver. Be sure to install support bar first and align the divider by loading at an angle, push into place. Reinstalled shelf and icemaker tray, door, and basket. Can be a little tricky to install if you don't do the support bar first, and removing the door seemed necessary for adequate access to the interior of freezer.

1.Google troubleshooting for this issue. Determine the inverter card was bad. Installed new card and correct jumper harness per instructions. Total time to troubleshoot, remove & replace was about 30_45 min. Pretty simple