CES750M2N1S5 General Electric Range - Instructions

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Turn off breaker to stove. Remove 2 screws in front under stove top molding. Raise stove top from front on hinges in back. I used a piece of wood to support top up while I worked on burner. Remove screws holding old burner in place. I found my problem on the old burner - the outer element had been shorted and fried. Carefully remove each wire and reinstall in new burner in proper location. Reinstall burner and stove top with old screws.

had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

The real challenge on this particular glass top range was to figure out which screws had to be removed to lift the glass top to get at the burner elements to do a replacement.

Removed the two side screws holding the control panel in place. Disconnected the two wire harnesses and took off the control panel to allow easier access. Then examined the screws attaching the vertical plate in front of the glass top. Most of them were on the on the vertical plate but a few were in the bottom of the horizontal plate. If successful, the vertical plate can be moved forward giving access to the glass top. You pull up on the front of the glass top and when it just clears the vertical front plate you pull the top forward a bit to get the back end of the top out of the read chrome vent piece. I then leaned the glass top up to about a 75 deg angle and then propped the top with a 24” wooden garden stake. I used two stakes to hold the top up. The challenge after that is to remove the old burner and carefully note the colored wiring and locations of the connectors and removed the three old clips. That took a bit of effort. several of the wiring harnesses were very short so you had to be careful when removing and installing the new burner. The burner has numbers stamped on the metal and you must note each number where the clips are located. The rest is to reverse the process. Some of the insulation pieces came off and some of the insulation clips fell off and you must be sure to get the insulation pieces back on in the correct location. Expect a lot of gunk that needs to be cleaned on the top and trim pieces. I save around $200 by doing my own replacement.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.

Watched video