CDW9380N20SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

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Really all it took was removal of the old wheels which would not stay on anyway and the installation of the new ones. That required the axle and wheel being put together and the installing both of those on the lower rack. I was about to buy a new dishwasher when the salesmen told me about a product called Lemi Shine it saved my hundreds of dollars and the inside of my dishwasher looks brand new. With my new wheels I am good to go again.

This was a simple part swap. The stud rollers are the small peg-clips that hold the wheel on the lower dish rack. Removing the old stud rollers from the wheels required a pair of pliers. I then popped the new stud rollers into the old wheels and snapped them back onto the lower dish rack. I scored some major points from my frustrated wife -- easy, fast fix!

This lower rack (GE part #WD28X25960) was ready to roll right into the dishwasher straight out of the box, no tools needed.

The noise came from the dishwasher door. Removed the Phillips screws from the door edge to gain access by separating the front of the door. Had to disconnect some of the electrical connectors to allow more access. Disconnected the blower motor connector. Removed the screws holding the motor assembly and removed the blower motor. Installed the new blower motor and reconnected the electrical connectors. Reassembled the door and cycled the dishwasher. Very quiet now!

Man, if you need help doing this repair, you shouldn't even own a dishwasher, much less a house. This was the easiest repair in the entire galaxy. First, I removed the old wheels, which was easy becasue they were always falling off by themselves. I then had to use pliers to squeeze the old studs to remove them from the wheels. All the wheels were still in good shape. Then I snapped the wheels onto the new studs, and snapped the studs onto the lower rack. And then, it was like I was in heaven. Bluebirds were singing, the sun was shining, my lower rack was sliding in and out and in and out like it was new. O happy day.

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

HAHA! The easiest repair we have ever done! Took it out of the box, snapped the old arm loose, put the new arm in and -- the dishwasher works like new! Thank you!

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Looked up repair on Google and UTube. Looked at component location in the site manual.

Removed screws carefully, noting location of each. The two top center screws were holding a plastic clamp, each of which fell off. The cover was removed. Observing the control unit I discovered it was held in place with one screw. I removed all of the wire sockets from the bad unit.

Installation was the reverse of removal. Modern designs are good enough that each wire connector is uniquely shaped and located - it simply cannot be installed in the wrong area.

Upon starting the unit I thought I saw error codes but by unplugging and plugging a few times a normal display showed. I ran it through several cycles with no problem. Success!

A final note to others thinking about such repairs - its not too difficult. I have been able to repair the main board and ice dispenser in a refrigerator and this, all with simple tools and just a little time.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Removed dishwasher from under counter. Removed both cable pulleys and bushings. Threaded new cables and remounted pulleys and bushings. Finally stretched springs onto cables. Checked counter balance and reinstalled dishwasher.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.