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CCS975SD3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CCS975SD3SS
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The broiler element wouldn't work.
After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one through the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Lajuanna from O'Fallon, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Heat sensor malfunction
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Diane from BUTLER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven was not getting very hot because the bake element had stopped working (broiler element was fine).
I turned off the breaker to the stove, took the oven racks out, used my pliers to remove the nuts that hold the bake element in place, then used the pliers to disconnect the old element from the wires in the back of the stove. Connected the new element, screwed the nuts back in, flipped the breaker back on, and turned on the oven. Ten minutes, tops.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Linda from Bella Vista, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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the bake element broke
First I removed the 2 screws and removed the bake element, replaced the new one
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Daniel from Apex, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broiler not working
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turned on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Teresa M from denver, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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change broiler element
removed 2 1/4in. drill screws holding broiler element to oven removed 2 1/4in.drill screws holding broiler element to top of oven removed female spade connectors ffom old element and reversed assembley very easy
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • lee from bethel, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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burned out broiler element
Don't forget to unplug and/or turn off the main breaker!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Amanda from Thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broiler element was sparking
I removed oven door so i could reach easier. Then removed screws from Broiler element at the back of the oven. Pulled off connected wires. Slid wire connectors on new element and screwed bracket in.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • jeff from NEENAH, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Inside burner did not heat
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
Parts Used:
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
Parts Used:
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the CCS975SD3SS
31 - 45 of 165