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CC2S985SET7SS General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Rio Vista, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Bolton, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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Warped burner
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ray from LEESVILLE, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Set the burner in place
Other Parts Used:
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the bake element broke
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Apex, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws and removed the bake element, replaced the new one
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Broiler not working
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Teresa M from denver, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turn
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ed on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from CUMMING, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
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access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyle from AURORA, CO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from
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the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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change broiler element
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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lee from bethel, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
removed 2 1/4in. drill screws holding broiler element to oven removed 2 1/4in.drill screws holding broiler element to top of oven removed female spade connectors ffom old element and reversed assembley very easy
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Original burner cap was chipping; must have been dropped somewhere along the line.
8 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mitzi from Briarcliff Manor, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
New burner cap replaced old; just placed over burner; no tools required.
One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.
One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.
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The element split open and burned out
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Houston, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I unscrewed two screws inside the over over the element. Then I slowly pulled the element out and unplugged the two wires attached. Afterward I pushed the element back in place and screwed it back in and was done. Sure saved $550 I thought I might have to spend on a new oven,
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burned out broiler element
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Amanda from Thornton, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Don't forget to unplug and/or turn off the main breaker!
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Needed To Replace Burner
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert K from York, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took longer to open the box.
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Burnt burner
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janine from Wind Gap, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.
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