CC2S985SET2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

remove and replace the same .

Remove and replaced water valve, seems to have fixed the problem

I have no clue what wire goes where because there is no thing to refer to or instructions of any kind . I have not been able to install the part.

Replaced it

plug in thermistor when needed

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

pull off old ones, which wasn't hard because they were cracked. push new ones in. Some were a little harder than others but all went in with a little push.

Very easy to remove grates, burner cover and remove old burner head. Very simple process, but surprised that there was no efficient way to clean carbon deposits from my old burner. Burner video instructions on line insured I installed the new burner head correctly (actually, pretty hard to get wrong), and burner worked correctly immediately. Will likely replace other burners in time as the new one is so "silvery" colored compared to my other burners.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Slide new, better quality knobs into place.

Replaced burner. New burner now ignites properly.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Just push the burner knob in.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.